Day 4 – 12 February 2019, Tuesday

Rise and shine! It’s my last day in Tokyo and I have a full day to roam about before my late flight back home tonight. I wasn’t planning on doing much initially but thanks to my primary school friend MB, I ended up with a packed and fulfilling day, which was great! The weather was superb as well – ranging from 7 to 9 degrees Celsius – and the sun was out too. After having my breakfast, I checked out of my capsule hotel at 10:15am, deposited my bag at the front desk and set off.

The first thing I did was to go to the Shinjuku Expressway Bus Terminal to redeem my Airport Limousine Bus ticket for the ride to Haneda International Airport later tonight. As I had already purchased the Limousine & Subway Pass combo when I first arrived, I was issued a voucher for the return trip and all I needed to do was to exchange it for a valid bus ticket.

The Shinjuku Expressway Bus Terminal is located just 2 minutes’ walk away from my Anshin Oyado capsule hotel. The departure terminal and ticket counter are located on the 4^th floor. The ticket redemption process was very smooth and I obtained my bus ticket without any hassle. As my flight was at 2:30am, I chose the last bus that departs Shinjuku at 10:50pm. The ride from Shinjuku to Haneda Airport takes about 30 minutes so there is more than enough time.

Once that official business was done, I made my way to my first destination – Meiji Jingu. I had never visited Meiji Jingu during my past three visits to Tokyo so I made it a point to visit it this time.

There are two main entrance gates to Meiji Jingu. The South Gate is more commonly used because it is just three minutes’ walk from the popular Harajuku train station. The North gate is near Yoyogi station. After consulting Google Maps, I discovered that I could actually walk from Shinjuku to the North gate in less than 20 minutes. Since the weather was so fine, I decided to walk instead of taking the subway.

It was a very pleasant stroll. Along the way, I passed by a railway crossing at street level. We do not have these in Singapore so I was very amused by it. The amazing thing is that the timings of the trains in both directions are coordinated in such a way that they are almost simultaneous, so the barrier only needs to come down once for both trains to pass through, thus minimising the waiting time for traffic and pedestrians. I wonder if it was intentional or happenstance.

I reached the North gate at 10:50am and was greeted by a huge, brown torii, the traditional Japanese gate found at the entrance of a Shinto shrine. Torii are usually painted bright red but the one here is unvarnished, blending in with the forest of trees behind it. It is quiet here, with only a handful of other tourists around.

Meiji jingu, or Meiji Shrine, is dedicated to the deities of Emperor Meiji and his consort Empress Shöken. Emperor Meiji was the first emperor of modern Japan and he was a well-loved figure. The Emperor passed away on 30 July 1912, and Empress Shöken followed on 9 April 1914. Meiji Jingu was built as a shrine of national prayer for peace and prosperity to commemorate the Emperor’s virtues, and it was completed in 1920.

The moment you pass through the torii gate, you’ll be immersed in the tranquility of the forest. Apparently, there are about 100,000 trees in the entire Meiji Jingu compound. The huge, leafy trees on either side of the spacious boulevard provide shelter from the sun, making it much cooler than the outside.

After about 10 minutes of walking, I reached the gate marking the entrance of the main complex of shrine buildings. Stepping into the main shrine area, I saw a huge tree on the right that was surrounded by racks with rows of neatly hung wooden tablets. I went closer for a look and saw that they were wooden plaques with writings by visitors.

These are called ema votiv tablets and they are for special personal prayers and gratitude towards the deities enshrined in Meiji Jingu. You can get one for 500 JPY and write down your personal wishes, and hang it around the divine tree. These ema are offered at mikesai, the morning ceremony held every day, and your wishes are conveyed by the priests.

The main shrine building, or honden, is the largest one and it is not for entering. You have to pray outside it. But before you can do so, you’ll need to visit the chozu-ya, a place for the ritual cleansing of hands and mouth. You can easily spot the chozu-ya, which houses a trough with water flowing into it, and long bamboo dippers for you to cleanse your hands and mouth.

There is a procedure to follow. First, you have to set your mind at ease. Next, use the dipper to scoop up some water, then rinse your left hand first, followed by your right. After that, rinse your mouth with water poured into the palm of your left hand. Lastly, hold the dipper upright in both hands to rinse the handle with the remaining water, before returning the dipper to its original position. Importantly, do not drink directly from the dipper.

After you have cleansed your hands and mouth, you may then proceed to the main shrine to pray to the deities. After praying, you will usually ring the bell nearby to awaken the deities. But if you want to be extra sure, you can make an offering of coins by throwing them into a slat-lidded offertory box. The rattling of the coins, followed by clapping and bowing will definitely awaken the deities.

After that, I made my way out of Meiji Jingu and exited via the South Gate. From there, I walked towards Takeshita Street, the most famous street in Harajuku. As I was walking, I heard a buzz of roaring engines and I turned my head towards the main road. It was coming from the go-karts on the road!

Before coming on this trip, I had considered booking a street go-karting experience on Klook (click here). A 1-hour package costs S$36.75 and it includes free rental of a cosplay costume. The most popular costumes are of course, the Mario Brothers ones, and they are always the first to be snapped up. The price is reasonable and I was quite keen to try it, but I was afraid that it would be too cold to do it during winter, so I decided against it. It sure looked fun and I definitely want to try it the next time I visit!

Takeshita Street is a 400m long pedestrian shopping street in the heart of Harajuku and it is the epitome of youth culture in Tokyo. The narrow street is flanked by shops selling the trendiest fashion threads and it is a testbed for products that will soon become the latest fads across the nation. It is also a favourite gathering spot for cosplayers, who usually make an appearance on Sunday. There are also plenty of eateries and cafes here to appeal to every visitor. The street is always packed and it was no exception when I visited.

I spent some time visiting the big Daiso store here, buying souvenirs and snacks for friends and family. It’s a great place to shop because almost everything in Daiso is priced at 100 yen (+8% tax). Great gift ideas include the cute beckoning cat and sushi fridge magnets, and the chopsticks and paper fans depicting the famous Great Wave off Kanagawa painting.

I didn’t linger too long at Harajuku as I had a lunch appointment with my primary school friend, MB, at 12:30pm. In fact, I was running a little late so I hurriedly made my way to Omotesandō to catch the subway.

Omotesandō is the home of high street fashion in Tokyo. The broad avenue is lined with beautiful trees and flagship boutiques of all the international brands including Louis Vuitton, Hugo Boss and more, earning its nickname as the Champs-Élysées of Japan. Clearly, branded goods are not my thing so I quickly walked to the subway station to catch my train to Aoyama-Itchome, just two stops away.

MB had chosen to meet at Aoyama-Itchome because that’s where her workplace is located. At about 12:50pm, I spotted a familiar face walking towards me and we broke into huge grins before welcoming each other with a warm embrace. It’s so good to see her again in Tokyo!

During my visit in 2013, she had graciously spent time to take me around various cool spots in Tokyo and brought me to several eateries for some of the most delicious Japanese cuisine. I actually didn’t want to disturb her this time but she found out that I was in Tokyo so we arranged to meet up once more.

We popped into one of the restaurants at Aoyama First Avenue and I ordered a 1,000 JPY set lunch. The food was good and we spent an enjoyable hour just chatting and catching up.

We took stock of how our lives had changed since 2013 and what we’re busy with now. She shared with me that she and her husband had moved from their previous apartment at Naka-Meguro to a cool neighbourhood called Jiyugaoka. She also recommended me some nice places to check out for the rest of the day. The time just flew by and before we knew it, her lunch break was over and it was time to say goodbye. I’m very sure it won’t be our last time meeting in Tokyo.

At 2pm, I proceeded to the first place that MB had recommended me – Todoroki. From the subway station, I walked for less than five minutes and reached the entrance of Todoroki Valley. MB knew that I liked hiking and nature so she specially recommended me to come here to experience a different side of Tokyo.

According to the information board, Todoroki Valley was created as the Yazawa River eroded the southern tip of the Musashino Upland. It extends for approximately 1km and it is the only valley in the 23 cities of Tokyo. They valley is cool even during summer as the luxuriant growth of Japanese zelkova, bamboo-leaf oak, konara oak, Japanese mountain cherry and other trees provide ample shelter. The trees also mask out the sounds of the traffic and city life, creating a relaxed atmosphere where you are at one with nature.

The trail starts at Golf-bashi Bridge, a striking red steel arch bridge across the Yazawa River. After descending the stairs, I reached the bottom of the valley, where a path runs alongside the river. It was very peaceful indeed as the only sounds came from the chirping of birds and the flowing of water.

About two-thirds of the way, I saw a sign leading to the Noge Otsuka Ancient Tomb, so I took a small detour and climbed up the stairs. At street level, I encountered a residential neighbourhood that reminded me a lot of the time last year when I was cycling around in Tallinn, Estonia and went to the non-touristy places.

Along the way, I passed by two tennis courts at Tamagawanogemachi Park, where some ladies were playing doubles. The skies were cloudy now and it was quite chilly, yet the ladies were having a good time. It was nice to see the locals going about their daily lives.

The Noge Otsuka Ancient Tomb is located at the top of a small mound of earth. It is the largest tumulus of the Noge Tumulus Cluster. Excavations have unearthed objects like armour, stone tools and grave goods made out of beads. At the top of the mound, you can find markings where four bodies were buried. There isn’t much to see actually, so don’t expect too much.

After the short detour, I re-entered Todoroki Valley and continued my walk. Soon, I reached Riken-no-hashi Bridge, a small wooden bridge. Crossing over, I saw a small temple and Fudō-no-Taki Falls. I was expecting a nice waterfall but it was just small trickles of water flowing out of two dragon heads, so it was rather disappointing.

I then climbed a steep staircase and it led me to Todoroki Fudōson Temple. The large temple was empty when I visited and it was very quaint and serene. Apparently, it’s a famous spot for viewing cherry blossoms.

After exiting the temple, I walked along the main road towards Todoroki station. In all, I spent about 50 minutes at Todoroki. It was a short but nice excursion. Todoroki Valley has been dubbed a secret nature hideout in Tokyo and it’s worth a visit if you have some time to spare.

From Todoroki, I took the subway to my next destination – Jiyugaoka, arriving at 3:35pm. From the moment I stepped out of the subway station, I could see why MB chose to move here. Jiyugaoka is a compact little town with a very laid back feel. There are plenty of shops yet it’s not as dense or crowded like Shimokitazawa. There is also a quirky blend of old and new, Japanese and European architecture. I came across buildings inspired by the canals of Venice alongside age old Shinto shrines.

At 4:30pm, I made my way to Kosoan, a café recommended by MB. Kosoan is housed in a traditional wooden building, an anomaly in the neighbourhood. Following the path of stone steps, I soon stepped into a beautiful courtyard garden with well-manicured trees. On the left is the main dining area, a room with tatami mats and low tables. It felt very much like a ryokan, or a traditional Japanese inn.

The menu was quite limited, with only 11 items for sale. Kosoan serves mainly desserts and matcha items. I ordered an aulait coffee for 550 JPY (S$6.88). Even though its menu is like a typical Japanese café, I think Kosoan is better described as a traditional teahouse, due to its setting. I really loved the tatami mats and the large glass windows overlooking the garden. It was so quiet and peaceful. It is a nice place to unwind and rest after a day of walking, and a perfect spot to have a good chat with your friends. Thanks MB for the great recommendation, I really loved it!

At 5:45pm, I arrived at my last destination – Naka-Meguro, a residential district with many unique boutique cafes and stores. The area along the Meguro River is also a very popular and beautiful area for cherry blossom viewing. Naka-Meguro is MB’s old hood and it is a lovely place, although it has become very crowded and perhaps a little too hip for its own good. I agree that Jiyugaoka is a better place to live.

I told MB that I would like to have a meal at an izakaya restaurant and she recommended me Punk Rock Izakaya. Its location is actually closer to Daikanyama but it is still within walking distance from Naka-Meguro. Izakaya is a type of informal Japanese pub where salarymen go for after-work drinking.

Punk Rock Izakaya is literally an underground Japanese pub as it is located in the basement. Befitting its underground status, the restaurant is quite hard to find. Even with Google Maps, I walked past the area a few times and failed to spot it. It was also because the restaurant opens at 6pm and I arrived slightly early, so they had not put up the entrance sign yet.

The interior of the restaurant is super cool. There is a sort of bar counter in front of the kitchen area, where I sat. When I looked up, I saw that the light bulbs are mounted on real cymbals. I love it! All around the counter and on the wall to the right are bottles and bottles of Japanese alcohol. On the left is a two-level dining area with tables and chairs. Plastered on the walls are posters of punk rock bands and pop culture images. And of course, there’s punk rock music blaring out from the speakers to complete the picture. When taken in all together, I felt like I was on the set of a Quentin Tarantino film. Super cool.

The menu is handwritten and gaijin-friendly too, with helpful English translations. I was craving for some grilled skewers so I ordered the assorted kushiyaki (1,100 JPY/S$13.75) with five sticks, and a glass of beer (650 JPY/S$8.13). The skewers were yummy and the atmosphere was great. I enjoyed my dining experience at Punk Rock Izakaya thoroughly. Once again, thanks MB for your great recommendation!

After that, I made my way back to Shinjuku for the last time. After popping in to Tower Records for some last-minute shopping, I ended off the trip with a meal at a sushi bar near my hotel. I simply love the generous portions of fish that spill over the rice! I managed to tick almost every box of my wishlist for this trip and eat all the things that I wanted to eat. I couldn’t ask for more.

After retrieving my luggage from the hotel, I proceeded to the Shinjuku Expressway Bus Terminal to board my Airport Limousine Bus. It departed at 10:50pm sharp and I arrived at Haneda International Airport at 11:21pm. My SQ639 flight departed Tokyo on 13 February 2019 at 2:20am and I touched down at Changi Airport Terminal 3 at 8:35am. Home sweet home!