How It All Began
In 2025, besides a short trip to Genting Highlands in Malaysia, I didn’t have a proper family trip with my parents. Hence, we resolved to go on a longer trip together in 2026. We shortlisted a few destinations in the region but ultimately settled on South Korea. Mum and dad have been to Seoul and Jeju before; I have only been to Jeju, in 2024. Seoul is the only noteworthy capital city in South/Southeast Asia that I have not visited before. I also heard good things about Busan so we decided to visit both Seoul and Busan on this trip, spending 4 nights in each city.
Travelling during the right season is very important, in terms of cost and weather considerations. We wanted to avoid the cold winter and hot summer, and also the peak cherry blossoms season in early spring and busy school holiday periods. Hence, we chose to travel in late April/early May, when the temperature is more favourable and airfares and accommodation are more reasonably priced.
For our flights, we pampered ourselves by flying with our national carrier, Singapore Airlines. For our return flights, we paid S$1,552.60 altogether, or S$517.53 per person. The price includes 25kg checked baggage, meals and seat selection. The price was good because it was a promotional fare and I also redeemed 36,800 of my Krisflyer miles.
The promo fare was only for two-way travel between Singapore and Seoul. I did consider taking an outbound flight from Singapore directly to Busan, and then taking a return flight from Seoul to Singapore. This would save us one leg of travelling between Seoul and Busan. However, this flight combination was not on promotion and cost a lot more.
However, it is not a big problem because travelling by train between Seoul and Busan is easy and inexpensive. A ride on the KTX bullet train takes less than 3 hours each way. From Seoul to Busan, we paid 59,800 won (S$51.90) per person for the standard Economy seats. For the return journey from Busan to Seoul, we splurged and booked First Class seats for 83,700 won (S$72.64) per person.
For our accommodation, convenience and comfort were the two biggest considerations. For Busan, I booked Lotte Hotel in Seomyeon, which is centrally located and kinda in between all the major spots, with Busan Station, Nampo and Gamcheon to the south/southwest and Haeundae to the east. For Seoul, I booked Stanford Hotel in Myeongdong because it is near Seoul Station, the airport limousine bus station and many popular tourist destinations.
For Lotte Hotel Busan, I booked a Deluxe Family Twin Room (35 square metres) with two double beds. I signed up as a Rewards Member and booked directly via the hotel’s website. For 4 nights, we paid 1,107,392 won (KRW) or S$973.85, which works out to S$243.46 per night. Breakfast is not included.
For Stanford Hotel Myeongdong, I booked a Family Twin Edge Room (30 square metres) with two double beds. I booked it via Booking.com and paid 1,926,342 won/S$1,694.05 for 4 nights, or S$423.51 per night. Similarly, breakfast is also not included. As you can see, accommodation in Seoul is considerably more expensive than in Busan, and the room is smaller too.
In terms of activities, I booked two tours via Klook. The first was a day tour from Busan to Gyeongju, the old capital of Korea. There was a limited promo with 20% off and we paid S$58.29/person. The second was a day tour from Seoul to the Garden of Morning Calm and Nami Island. It cost S$60.59/person.
I also booked tickets to watch the NANTA show in Myeongdong. Early bird tickets were at 30% discount so I booked the best VIP seats in the house. We paid 49,000 won (S$43.09) per person and the seats turned out to be excellent and well worth the money.
The last activity I pre-booked was a ride on the Blueline Sky Capsule in Busan. Demand is extremely high so it is necessary to make a reservation the moment the tickets are released 4 weeks in advance. I couldn’t complete my reservation on the official website due to authentication errors with my foreign credit card, so I asked my Korean friend to help me book. It cost 45,000 won to book a capsule for 3 people, so it worked out to S$13/person.
In all, the fixed expenditures amounted to S$1,706.34 per person for our 9-day, 8-night trip. With everything booked, we were ready to go!
(Exchange rate: 1,000 won = S$0.88)
Day 0: 26 April 2026, Sunday
We had a free ride to the airport, courtesy of my second aunt and cousins. Thanks for sending us off, it’s very much appreciated! As a result, we arrived early at Changi Airport Terminal 2 at 9:40pm. After checking in our luggage, we still had a lot of time to spare so we grabbed a bite at The Hainan Story before boarding our SQ608 flight just before midnight.
It’s always a great way to fly with Singapore Airlines. It was my first time seeing the new safety video. I thought it was quite well done, combining live action with animation. According to the flight captain, the distance from Singapore to Seoul is 5,081km and the flight time is 5 hours 39 minutes. After departing Changi Airport at 12:20am, I closed my eyes and tried to catch some sleep.
Day 1: 27 April 2026, Monday
Breakfast was served at 5:15am local time (South Korea is 1 hour ahead of Singapore). The meal comprised of cheese omelette with chicken, spinach and potato, along with fruits, a bun and butter, yoghurt, coffee, orange juice and bottled water. It was pretty filling.
We touched down at Seoul’s Incheon Airport at 7:07am, 38 minutes ahead of schedule. Prior to the trip, I read online that Singaporeans are entitled to register for the Smart Entry Service (SES), an automated immigration clearance service for selected nationalities. Registration can only be done on-site, i.e. when you first arrive in South Korea. Once registered, you can use the e-gates for all future entries across all South Korean airports.
However, when we disembarked from our plane at Incheon Airport Terminal 1 at 7:25am, I saw a sign stating that registration for the SES at Terminal 1 starts only from 9:00am. Hence, we were too early and could not register for the SES, so we used the manual immigration lanes. Nevertheless, it was a breeze and we cleared immigration in about 15 minutes. Luggage retrieval was also very fast and we stepped out to the Arrival Hall just after 8:00am.
Our first 4 nights will be spent in Busan, not Seoul. Hence, we had to travel from the airport to Seoul Station in the city centre to catch the KTX bullet train to Busan. From the public area of the Arrival Hall, we followed the signs for “Airport Railroad” to the basement and reached the Transportation Center about 5 minutes later. This is where you can catch the express train or regular train (all stops) to various parts of Seoul city.
A ride on the Airport Railroad Express Train (AREX) from Incheon Airport Terminal 1 to Seoul Station takes only 43 minutes, compared to 59 minutes on the All Stop Train. You can buy your tickets from the self-service ticket vending machines on site or online (click here). An adult ticket for the AREX costs 13,000 won if you buy it from the vending machine. However, it is 500 won cheaper if you buy online. I had already signed up as a member beforehand so I bought our tickets online for 12,500 won (S$10.85) each.
There was a train departing at 8:18am but it was a little too tight for us so we decided to take the next train at 9:06am, which was what I planned to catch anyway. In the meantime, we went to the washroom to freshen up, stretch our legs and buy our T-money cards. The T-money card vending machine is located at the other side of the Transportation Center, where the fare gates and vending machines for the All Stop Train is located.
The T-money card is a rechargeable, prepaid smart card used for public transportation across South Korea, much like our EZ-Link card in Singapore. You can also use the T-money card to pay for your purchases at convenience stores like CU, GS25, 7-Eleven and Emart24. Alternatively, foreigners can also add the digital version of the T-money card to their Apple or Google Wallets, and top up the card instantly via the Mobile T-money app.
I bought two physical T-money cards for mum and dad, while I used the digital version on my iPhone. The physical T-money card costs 5,000 won ($4.40) each. It does not come with any stored value. I then topped up 10,000 won to each card using the Card Recharge machine.
At 8:45am, we entered the AREX station and took the escalator one level down to the train platform. Our seats were reserved so there was no need to rush. The train arrived at 9:03am and everyone boarded in an orderly manner. We placed our suitcases in the luggage rack before taking our seats. The train was very clean, spacious and comfortable, as you’d expect. We departed Incheon Airport Terminal 1 promptly at 9:06am and zipped directly to Seoul Station, arriving at 9:50am.
Upon disembarking from the AREX train at Seoul Station, we followed the signs to the connecting KTX train station upstairs. Along the way, we briefly stepped out of the station and I had my first glimpse of Seoul. The sky was a cloudless blue and it was a cool 13 degrees C. Hope the weather will stay this beautiful when we return to Seoul in five days’ time!
Seoul Station is a key terminus for the KTX, connecting Seoul to popular cities like Busan, Jeonju, Gyeongju and other parts of South Korea. The station is huge and it was bustling with locals and tourists on this Monday morning. We also saw many guys dressed in their Army fatigues, carrying backpacks bearing the South Korean flag. We had about an hour to spare because I already pre-booked our tickets for the KTX train no. 25, departing Seoul Station at 10:58am. While waiting, we munched on buns and sipped the hot coffee that we bought from Tous les Jours bakery.
Everyone stood in front of the giant display board in the main hall, waiting for the train platform information to be displayed. The platform number will only be revealed 15 minutes before the train’s departure time. The moment the information for our KTX train no. 25 was shown on the screen, everyone made a beeline for platform 11.
There was only one lift and the escalator was under maintenance so we carried our luggage down the flight of stairs. Again, our seats were reserved so there was no real need to rush. However, we wanted to board early so we could secure limited space on the luggage racks at the front or back of the car. If not, we could also store our luggage on the overhead racks above the seats, but that would require some heavy lifting.
The Economy seats were in 2-2 configuration, with four seats in a row. I chose a window seat with a power socket so I could charge my mobile phone during the 2 hour 44 minute train ride. I also booked forward facing seats, which are generally more pleasant. At 10:58am, we departed Seoul Station for Busan.
The bullet train ride was smooth, zooming swiftly across the South Korean peninsula towards the southeast. Along the way, we made several stops, each lasting about 3 minutes. Many people alighted at Gyeongju, a major tourist site that we will visit tomorrow on a day tour.
We arrived at Busan Station right on schedule at 1:42pm. Most people know that Japanese bullet trains are famed for their clockwork precision, but so are the ones in South Korea. The train station was packed with travellers, not surprising because Busan is the second largest city in South Korea in terms of population and size. After making our way out of the massive train station, we followed the signs to the Metro station underground.
Busan city is served by four Metro lines (Lines 1, 2, 3 and 4), the Busan-Gimhae LRT and the Donghae Line railway. The main attractions of Busan are located along Lines 1 and 2 so you will probably use them the most. Busan Metro Station is on Line 1. Seomyeon, where we are staying at, is an interchange station for Lines 1 and 2, making it super convenient for getting around.
Before coming to South Korea, my friend IH warned me that escalators are not very common in the Metro stations here so we’ll have to carry our luggage up and down many flights of stairs. However, an attentive station staff member saw us approaching with luggage and very helpfully directed us to use the fare gates nearest to the lift. After tapping our T-money cards at the gantry, we took the elevator down to the train platform level.
One thing we would learn over the course of our stay in South Korea is that the layout of the Metro stations is very complicated. There are multiple entry/exit points and confusingly, some of them are only connected to one direction of train travel. That means you cannot use that particular fare gate to enter if you want to take the train that is travelling in the other direction. Furthermore, the lift is only accessible via certain fare gates as well. So, if you want to use the lift, you have to locate the specific fare gate with lift access, and check that the direction of travel is correct as well. It’s not as straightforward as in Singapore where most of the stations have a centralised entry point.
We boarded the Metro train at 2:05pm. It was crowded but mum and dad managed to get seats. During the ride, we noticed that not many youngsters would readily give up their seats for the elderly, perhaps because there are just too many elderly folk here in Busan. Seomyeon station is only 6 stops away and we alighted at 2:16pm. The fare was 1,600 won (S$1.40).
For this trip, we wanted to pamper ourselves and stay at nice hotels but the Lotte Hotel in Seoul was a lot more expensive so we booked the Lotte Hotel here in Busan. I also chose it because the hotel is connected to Lotte Department Store and directly accessible from Seomyeon station via the underpass at Exit 7. After meandering through the mall and riding a couple of escalators, we arrived at the posh hotel lobby, befitting its 5-star status. Check-in was smooth and we proceeded to our room on the 24th floor.
Our Deluxe Family Twin Room was very spacious but I felt the furnishings were slightly dated and the room was rather dim. However, the hotel’s location and comfortable beds made up for its shortcomings. After dropping our luggage and freshening up, we headed out at 3:30pm for a late lunch.
We were quite famished so we settled for a convenient lunch at the food hall of Lotte Department Store, at a katsu curry restaurant called Denki. We ordered three sets of pork/tenderloin curry katsu rice and two cans of soda for 48,000 won (S$42.24). The portion was big and we were stuffed by the end of the meal.
I had only one programme for the day – to visit Spa Land at Centum City. From Seomyeon, we hopped on Line 2 of the Metro and alighted at Centum City station, 13 stops away. The journey took 24 minutes and the fare was 1,600 won (S$1.40). We arrived at 5:01pm. As mum and dad won’t be going to the spa with me, I left them to shop at the Shinsegae and Lotte department store at Centum City.
Spa Land is a souped up version of a jjimjilbang, or traditional Korean bathhouse and sauna. Many of the regular jjimjilbangs are 24-hour establishments where the locals go to relax, socialise and even sleep. However, Spa Land does not operate for 24 hours; it is open from 8:00am to 11:00pm, with last admission at 10:00pm. The admission fee allows for up to 4 hours of use, with additional charges of 5,000 won per hour after the first 4 hours. However, if you spend 10,000 won or more (excluding admission fee) within Spa Land (e.g. on food, body scrub or massage), usage is permitted for up to 6 hours.
Spa Land is located within the massive Shinsegae complex and it took me a while to find its entrance on the ground floor. After paying the entrance fee of 26,000 won (S$22.88), I was issued a slip indicating my shoe closet and locker number, a wrist key tag for my locker and a voucher to redeem a free soft serve ice-cream at the snack bar. I took the escalator to the First Floor, where I deposited my shoes at the assigned locker, and collected my two towels and lounge clothes. I then went to the men’s locker room to undress.
There are two distinct zones within a jjimjilbang – the bathing area (mogyoktang) and the common area. The bathing area is gender-separated and it is a completely nude area. The common area is where both genders can mingle and enjoy the shared facilities while being clothed. Most people visit a jjimjilbang with a companion(s) so they will usually use the bathing facilities first before heading to the common area to relax. Since I was alone, it didn’t really matter which order I went.
After undressing, I headed to the mogyoktang to use the baths and saunas. Similar to Japanese onsens, the first thing you should do is wash your body thoroughly before entering any of the shared baths. The setup of the shower area is very similar to onsens, with low stools at the washing stations for you to sit while you wash your hair, face and body. Toiletries (shampoo and body wash) are all provided.
Once I was clean, I went to the body scrub room to make an appointment for a seshin, or traditional Korean full-body exfoliation treatment. Two guys were lying on the table being scrubbed. One of the attendants saw me looking lost and he gestured to me to hand over my wrist key tag. He placed my key tag on one of the hooks on the wall to “join the queue”, and asked me to come back 40 minutes later. I wasn’t wearing my watch so I had to take note of the time on the wall clock.
While waiting for my turn, I went to try out all the different baths and saunas. There are a total of 9 pools in the men’s bath. 2 of them are cold baths and the remaining 7 are hot baths of varying temperatures. Some of the baths use natural spring water pumped from 1,000m underground. Some of them are like bubble jet baths where you can lie down while the others are regular hot spring baths. There are also 3 saunas – a Roman, Finnish and steam sauna.
After waiting for about 30 minutes, I was soaking in one of the hot baths when one of the attendants stepped out of the body scrub room and called my key tag number. It was time for me to get scrubbed. I lay face down on the table while the attendant used a rough-textured cloth called an Italy towel to scrub every inch (well, almost) of my naked body. He scrubbed my back, arms and legs and feet first before I flipped over and he continued with the front. The scrubbing was forceful but not painful or unbearable.
After scrubbing for about 10 minutes, he proceeded to do a massage. It was more like using his palm and elbow to apply light pressure on my back and legs. He only increased the pressure for the last few minutes. In all, the seshin experience lasted only for about 20 minutes. At 30,000 won (S$26.40), I felt it was a little expensive but I guess it is one of those things you should try when you visit a jjimjilbang.
I stepped out of the body scrub room with my skin as smooth as a baby’s bottom. After taking another shower, I went back to the locker room to put on my lounge clothes before heading to the communal area to check out the rest of Spa Land’s facilities. Not surprisingly, the communal area was a lot more crowded than the baths as most people came with their partners, friends or families, so this was where they all gathered to hang out. First, I went to the Snack Bar to redeem my free vanilla soft serve ice-cream.
There was a large Steam Hall and several sauna rooms around the snack bar. The steam hall is a large rectangular space where people can just lie on the ground to rest or chat. Then there is a Salt Room, Powder Room, Hot Steam Room, Fomentation Room (Bulgama), Yellow Ochre Room, Hardwood Charcoal Room and Ice Room too. Each room has a different theme and temperature, serving different purposes (and health benefits), I suppose.
I took the stairs up to the Mezzanine level, where there were another 7 rooms – Roman, Wave Dream, Pyramid, SEV, Body Sound, Hammam and Ball Room. The rooms were of varying sizes but they were generally quite small, comfortably fitting around 10 to 15 people at a time.
Some of them were pretty fancy – the Wave Dream Room had psychedelic lights with swirling patterns projected onto the ceiling to create a dream-like state; the Pyramid Room was designed like the interior of an Egyptian stone pyramid. It wasn’t really conducive for relaxing because it was rather crowded and people walked in and out of the rooms all the time.
After that, I went to the Second Floor, where there was a restaurant, ramen café, spa with massage and beauty treatments, and two quiet relaxation rooms. One of the relaxation rooms had hammocks (which were fully occupied) and the other had dozens of comfortable reclining beds. The relaxation rooms are quiet zones and conducive for napping.
Lastly, I went to the large outdoor foot bath area on the First Floor, where there were many pools and seats where you can soak your feet and legs in knee-high warm water. The water was only lukewarm so it wasn’t shiok. I then went back to the locker room to change and made payment for the body scrub as I exited the venue.
In all, I spent two hours at Spa Land. Most people will spend a much longer time here because they want to maximise the admission fee and utilise all the facilities. Overall, I think Spa Land is a bit overrated. I enjoyed soaking in the hot baths most but I felt the rest of the sauna facilities were quite gimmicky and crowded, making it hard to really relax. I think Spa Land is also best enjoyed with companions. I went alone so it wasn’t that fun for me, but I’m glad I tried it.
After leaving Spa Land at 7:20pm, I walked through the Shinsegae department store before meeting up with mum and dad. Shinsegae Centum City is certified by the Guinness World Records as the world’s largest department store, spanning 293,905 square metres over 14 floors. Besides the retail mall, the complex also includes Spa Land, a cinema, indoor ice rink, roof garden and golf driving range.
Mum and dad said they didn’t buy anything from Shinsegae because it is too high-end and luxurious. They also didn’t get anything from the adjoining Lotte department store so it was a fruitless evening for them. We were still quite full from our late lunch so we went to a bakery to buy some buns for a simple dinner. At 7:47pm, we hopped on the Metro and departed Centum City, alighting at Seomyeon station 23 minutes later.
We were back at our Lotte Hotel around 8:20pm. We had an early night because we were tired from the red eye flight and almost a full day of travelling. Just a chill day today, with the real sightseeing to start tomorrow. And that’s the end of Day 1 in Busan!