Day 15 – 24 October 2025, Friday

Compared to yesterday, I had a much better sleep last night and was able to get some much-needed rest. I slept in till around 8:00am. After washing up and taking a hot bath, I went to the McDonald’s next to my Anshin Oyado capsule hotel and had breakfast there. I bought a Mega Muffin set for 700 yen (S$6.09) and a black chocolate pie for 190 yen (S$1.65).

My flight home tonight is at 12:40am, just after midnight, so I still have a full day in Tokyo. However, I’ll need to check out of my room by 12:00pm but I can deposit my luggage at the hotel for safekeeping. After finishing my breakfast, I went back to Anshin Oyado to pack my stuff before checking out early at 10:40am.

For my last day in Tokyo, I just wanted to take it easy and hang around Shinjuku. I was wary of doing any more shopping because my luggage was already very full and heavy from all the CDs and vinyl records I bought yesterday. I went to the BOOK OFF PLUS Shinjuku Station West Exit Store to browse through the selection of used CDs…just for a look, because you know, FOMO. I found a couple of interesting titles but decided not to buy them.

For lunch, I wasn’t in the mood for anything extravagant and I saw a restaurant selling katsudon for only 600 yen (S$5.22) so I went for it. It was a small restaurant but it was full of locals during lunchtime. Despite the low price, the katsudon was as good as any other and didn’t scrimp on ingredients. It was cheap and good.

I noticed that many restaurants in Japan have counter seating, which is actually smart because they can fill up the whole row of seats with solo or group diners. For example, when a group of three people takes a table for four, one seat is wasted. Hence, counter seating maximises the limited capacity in a small restaurant. It gives the restaurant flexibility to assign seating to customers during peak meal periods. Sharing a counter table seat with a stranger side-by-side is less awkward than sharing a table face-to-face. I think counter seats are also popular in Japan because it is considered normal and socially acceptable for people to eat alone.

It was another gloomy and drizzly day in Tokyo. After lunch, I went to the huge Uniqlo/Bic Camera store at Shinjuku East Exit to shop. While not as big as the flagship store in Ginza, this Uniqlo store is already very big, and its sister brand GU is also located in the same building. A huge Daiso occupies the entire top floor, along with its subsidiaries Threeppy and Standard Products.

After discovering Standard Products in Okinawa earlier in the year, it has become one of my favourite shops in Japan. It sells stylish everyday household and lifestyle products at very affordable prices. I especially love their collection of tote bags, which are colourful, elegant and functional. If you ever visit Japan, don’t miss out on Standard Products!

I continued to explore the quieter streets of Shinjuku and dropped by the BOOK OFF Express store at Yasukuni-dori. It was a smaller store and I didn’t manage to find anything good there.

I eventually found myself at a small back lane in Shinjuku Ni-chome where I discovered a very cosy and chill Matcha Café. It was one of those blink-and-you’ll-miss-it places because it’s so unassuming and blends quietly into the alley. The café was narrow and tiny, with only six counter seats and a small table for two in the far corner. The solo staff member occupied a small working space behind the bar. The café’s aesthetics were chic and minimalist. It was a very intimate setting with beautiful jazz music playing lightly in the background.

I took a seat at the counter right beside the entrance. As it was a cold day, I ordered the hot Kyoto Uni Matcha Plain Latte (1,200 yen/S$10.44). Each cup of matcha is made with care. With a counter seat, I got a front row view of the entire process. The matcharista (barista specialising in making matcha drinks) was a young chap and I could see that he took so much pride in his work.

He had a very organised workflow it was mesmerising to watch. After adding the organic matcha powder through a sieve into a small bowl, he used a traditional wooden ladle (like those found in temples for the cleansing ritual) to scoop water from a heated clay jar and poured the warm water into the bowl. He then used a bamboo whisk to whisk the concoction vigorously before adding frothed milk on top.

The result was a cup of smooth and comforting matcha, perfect for this chilly afternoon. The other customers had the iced version and a float, which came with a scoop of matcha ice-cream. The float looked amazing and I would want to try that next time. In all, it was a beautiful experience and I enjoyed it. Definitely recommended.

I made my way back to my hotel but there was one more place to visit – Tower Records at Flags mall, beside Shinjuku Station. I honestly wasn’t expecting to buy any more but this store had an excellent selection of used CDS starting from only 330 yen (S$2.87). The items on sale were even better than BOOK OFF or Disk Union. I found some gems and ended up buying seven MJ and Janet CDs. Any more and I wouldn’t be able to fit them in my hand carry luggage.

For my last dinner in Tokyo, I went to a restaurant I had bookmarked (since I don’t know when), called Shinpachi Shokudo. The restaurant is literally just across the street from my capsule hotel Anshin Oyado. It had good reviews and was popular, with a constant stream of customers. I ordered the chargrilled Atka mackerel combo meal (whole fish) for 1,364 yen (S$11.87) and a glass of Asahi beer for 176 yen (S$1.53).

The fish was really delicious. It had many fine bones, especially near the head, so I had to eat it very carefully. However, it allowed me to savour the meal even more. I don’t usually eat much fish back home but I have been eating lots of fish in Japan. I realised that you have to be quite proficient with chopsticks because Japanese don’t really use spoons when they eat, even for rice dishes. Overall, it was an excellent dinner.

After finishing my dinner, I went back to Anshin Oyado to retrieve my luggage and did my final packing. I left the hotel at 7:40pm and took the JR Yamanote Line train from Shinjuku to Hamamatsucho station, arriving at 8:13pm. I then transferred to the Tokyo Monorail to go to Haneda Airport. I just missed the connecting train so I waited 10 minutes for the next one. I arrived at Haneda Airport Terminal 2 at 8:52pm.

As I had about three hours to spare before boarding, I went to the Power Lounge Premium to have some food (again) and rest a little before the flight. The lounge was packed with travellers so it was hardly a place to relax, but I could at least sit and shut my eyes for a while.

My ANA flight NH843 departed Tokyo at 12:40am on 25 October. A small snack was given an hour after taking off, comprising a bottle of water, a chocolate muffin and a pack of crackers. Breakfast was served five hours into the flight. It was a substantial meal of penne pasta with eggplant and broccoli, two sides, fruits and a bun. I must say that the food and service on ANA are excellent.

I touched down at Singapore Changi Airport Terminal 2 at 6:51am. After more than two weeks away, I’m finally home! There’s really no place like home.

Post-Script

Upon returning to Singapore, I submitted my proof of completion via the official Shikoku Challenge website (click here). You can verify your completion in one of two ways – either by taking a photo of your Official Challenge Pass with the required stamps, or by sending your cycling data (TCX file) recorded with a Garmin, Strava or similar cycling computer device. I did the former.

Upon verification by the Ehime Prefecture Cycling Project Secretariat, a hard copy of the completion certificate was mailed to my home address in Singapore, along with a commemorative medal, which is actually a belt buckle. The certificate was enclosed in a cardboard folder and the medal was housed in a beautiful custom made box. It was a thoughtful and sweet gesture to commemorate my completing of the Shikoku Challenge.

Once again, I urge everyone to sign up for the Shikoku Challenge and experience it for yourself. I had a blast doing it and it was definitely one of my Top 3 trips of all time. If you want to try bikepacking for the first time (like I did), the Shikoku Challenge is the best place to start. You can read more about the Shikoku Challenge and how I prepared for it by clicking here.

In terms of safety, the cycling infrastructure in Shikoku is good, the roads are well-paved, the route is clearly marked and traffic is not heavy for most part. Drivers are generally friendly to cyclists. There is very low crime in Japan so you can leave your bicycle unattended while you visit the toilet or get your stamp from the checkpoint, and nothing will go missing.

In terms of logistics, you can easily rent a good-quality bicycle from the Giant store in Matsuyama at an affordable price so you don’t even have to bring your own bicycle along. Just bring your own saddle bags and accessories and mount them on your rented bicycle. Since the Shikoku Challenge is a loop around the entire island, you will start and end at the same place, which is perfect for bike rental. You can also store your big luggage at your hotel in Matsuyama and collect it when you return 11 days later, so you can focus on bikepacking without worrying about locker charges or using a luggage forwarding service.

In terms of comfort, there are many convenience stores and vending machines everywhere so you won’t run the risk of running out of water or food. Best of all, you can stay at hotels each night so you don’t have to bring a tent along or sleep at campsites. Most of the hotels come with an onsen or public bath so you can enjoy a hot soak at the end of the day.

Even though the total distance of 1,000km over 11 days may seem daunting, it is manageable if you cycle regularly and are moderately fit. There is considerable elevation but if someone like me from Singapore (a country that is almost completely flat) can do it, you can do it too. You will find yourself being pushed physically, especially the last few days, but that is all part of the challenge.

For 11 days, you will see some of the most beautiful scenery in Japan as you cycle along the coast, up the highlands, through farmland and across bridges. You will learn about the real Japanese way of life and culture that tourists often miss out on. You will visit some of the most beautiful temples and taste some of the most delicious food, and experience the best of Japanese hospitality.  

Will it change your life? Maybe not. But you definitely will not regret doing it. I sincerely hope more people will join the Shikoku Challenge and discover the beauty and wonders of Shikoku through cycling!