How It All Began

This trip was about 10 months in the making, conceived sometime in December 2023. As we discussed our travel plans for the coming year, we thought about where we would like to go together for a family vacation. As dad advances in age, far-flung destinations like Europe or America are out, so Asia would be the most ideal. It didn’t take long for us to decide on Japan, even though we have been there several times. Japan is one of my top three favourite countries in the world, so I will always find any reason to visit Japan. This would be my sixth visit to the country in 15 years.

In terms of when to visit, we prefer to visit during the cooler months of the year, so spring or autumn would be best. However, April is sakura season so everything will be expensive. Thus, we decided on October, when it starts to get cooler but not so cold yet.

In terms of where to go, I initially considered visiting some cities that I have never been before, like Nagano or Nagoya, to explore the more outskirt areas with beautiful natural scenery. However, some of these places are best accessed by car and I wasn’t too keen to drive overseas. I was also a bit lazy to do extensive research and plan.

Later, we roped in my two cousins FL and AL to join us on this trip. AL had never been to Japan before so I thought we should let her experience the key cities of Tokyo and Osaka. I’ve only been to Osaka once and I would love to revisit it. And of course, no trip to Japan would be complete without seeing Mount Fuji, so I decided to incorporate Hakone and Kawaguchiko into the itinerary. We eventually roped in FL’s granddaughter AA as well, and it became a party of six.

We decided to fly to Tokyo on Zipair, a relatively new low-cost carrier owned by Japan Airlines that commenced operations in June 2020. FL had travelled with Zipair before and she had a good experience and recommended it. We booked our flights via Trip.com, which offered a more competitive rate than the Zipair official website. We each paid S$337.20 for the one-way flight from Singapore to Tokyo (Narita), and an additional S$16.61 for seat selection, so the total Zipair fare was S$353.81, including 30kg checked baggage, but no meals.

For our return flight from Osaka, I initially considered Scoot but the timing and price weren’t great, so we went for China Eastern instead. The flights on both airlines were non-direct and involved a transit. For our China Eastern flight, the transit at Shanghai is 1 hour 55 minutes. We also booked our China Eastern flight via Trip.com, and it cost S$231 per person, including 2 x 23kg checked baggage, meals and reserved seats.

For our accommodation, I prioritised convenience so I chose hotels that were located very near the train stations, with the exception for the one at Kawaguchiko, which was a villa on the outskirts with a stunning view of Mount Fuji. For the six of us, we needed 2 x triple-sharing rooms and the choices were a bit more limited because most rooms are twin-sharing. And hotel rooms in Japan are known for being very small, so it was a bit challenging to find suitable ones. Accommodation in Japan is also expensive, so a large part of our budget went to the hotels. But in the end, I think the accommodations we chose turned out to be pretty good, except for the one in Osaka, which was tiny for three people.

For our stay in Tokyo city, I booked 2 x Superior Triple Rooms at Shinjuku Prince Hotel, at 172,839 yen (S$1,535.25) per room for 3 nights, without breakfast. I signed up for the free Seibu Prince Club membership to enjoy a discounted rate via their website.

For Hakone, I booked 2 x Renovated Main Building Japanese/Western Style Room Type 2 at Yumoto Fujiya Hotel, at 57,841 yen (S$524.58) per room for 1 night, without breakfast. I booked it via Booking.com, where I am a Genius member, which entitles me to more discounts.

For Kawaguchiko, I booked 1 x Tsubaki (Deluxe Room) at Kawaguchiko Urban Resort Villa, at 166,782 yen (S$1,559.97) for 2 nights, without breakfast. This villa was recommended to me by a friend and all six of us could fit into one villa, which was great.

For Osaka, I booked 2 x Family Triple Room at Hiyori Hotel Osaka Namba Station, at 76,779 yen (S$701.21) per room for 2 nights, with breakfast included. Both the Kawaguchiko and Osaka hotels were also booked on Booking.com.

In all, we each paid S$1,180.35 for 8 nights of accommodation, which works out to S$147.54 per person per night.

In terms of transport, we had to take several trains and buses to get around. The most expensive connection was the Shinkansen bullet train from Mishima to Osaka, which cost 11,630 yen (S$106.96) per person. We also bought the Fuji Hakone Pass (10,100 yen/S$90.90) and Enoshima-Kamakura Freepass (1,640 yen/S$14.76), which allowed for unlimited rides in the respective areas. We also paid 1,150 yen (S$10.69) each for the Odakyu limited express Romancecar train from Shinjuku to Hakone, and 2,300 yen (S$21.17) each for the Fujikyu limited express bus from Kawaguchiko to Mishima.

For transport to and from the airport, we paid 3,250 yen (S$28.87) for the Narita Express train from the Tokyo airport, and 1,490 yen (S$13.40) for the Nankai Limited Express rapid train to the Osaka airport. For our travels around Tokyo city, we bought the 48-hour Tokyo Subway Ticket for 1,200 yen (S$10.80). In all, we each spent S$297.55 on transport, excluding miscellaneous rides incurred later in Osaka and Kawaguchiko.

Including flights, hotels and transport, our fixed expenses for this 9-day, 8-night trip were S$2,046.10 each. Could package tours be cheaper? Perhaps so, but independent travel gives us more flexibility for sure.

In terms of exchange rate, the Singapore dollar was quite strong against the Japanese yen earlier in 2024. I put some money on my YouTrip wallet when the yen was at an all-time low of 100 yen = S$0.834 (or S$1 = 119.9 yen) on 11 July 2024, but it later dropped to around S$1 = 111.2 yen on 31 August 2024. The exchange rate at the local moneychanger was around S$1 = 110 yen.

For purchases made on my Trust credit card while in Japan, the exchange rate ranged from 100 yen = S$0.88 to S$0.90, depending on the day. Hence, for the purpose of these blog posts, I shall use an exchange rate of 100 yen = S$0.90, which is slightly higher (i.e. more expensive) than the actual rate incurred.

Day 1 – 4 October 2024, Friday

We met up at Changi Airport Terminal 1 on 3 October at 10:00pm and checked in for our flight. We had already paid for and selected our seats beforehand so it was just a matter of dropping our luggage and getting our boarding passes. Our Zipair flight ZG54 departed Singapore at 12:40am.

The Zipair plane looked new, with plush black leather seats that were comfortable, and came with sufficient width and legroom. Being a budget airline, there was no in-flight entertainment of course, but not that we needed it since it was a red-eye flight. I feel like I didn’t sleep much during the flight at all, but I wasn’t that tired because I slept a lot at home yesterday. We touched down at Narita Airport Terminal 1 at 8:34am local time (Tokyo is one hour ahead of Singapore).

After clearing immigration and customs, we made our way to the basement to catch the Narita Express (N’EX) train to the city. I had considered pre-booking the train tickets but decided against it because I wasn’t sure how long we would take to clear immigration. Pre-booking requires selecting a time slot for the train because the seats are reserved. If you miss the train you pre-booked for, your ticket is still valid for the next train, but you will not have any reserved seats; just take whatever seats are available. However, I found out that it is not necessary to pre-book because there were plenty of seats available.  

We bought our tickets from the vending machine, which has English language option so it was easy to use. We bought the Ordinary Car tickets, which cost 3,250 yen and come with cushioned seats and generous legroom. The Green Car (first class) seats cost 4,020 yen and they come with leather seats but with the same amount of legroom. We decided that we didn’t need the extra luxury.

The N’EX train pulled up at Platform 1 at 10:10am and departed Narita Airport five minutes later. There are luggage racks at the front and the back of the car, with dial-type locks that can be used to secure your luggage for added security. There are also overhead shelves for smaller hand-carry bags and luggage. Free Wifi is available too. It was a very smooth and comfortable ride.

We arrived at Shinjuku station at 11:41am. En route, the N’EX also stopped at Narita Airport Terminals 2/3, Tokyo, Shinagawa and Shibuya stations before terminating at Shinjuku. After exiting the train, we had to navigate our way through the underground maze to look for the East Gate, the exit nearest to our hotel. Shinjuku Station is the busiest train station in the world, serviced by six rail operators and handling over two million passengers every day. With over 200 exits, a plethora of shops and a constant stream of humans, it can be super confusing to find your way around.

With six pairs of eyes, we were able to locate the East Gate and we had a better idea where we were once we made our way to street level. It felt like we were back in Singapore as it was 30 degrees Celsius outside. Dragging our suitcases along, it felt so warm that I said I should buy some shorts to wear. With the help of Google Maps, we navigated ourselves to our Shinjuku Prince Hotel, arriving at 12:05pm. The tall hotel building is easy to spot from afar because of its unique brown exterior. However, we were too early for check-in (at 1:00pm) so we deposited our luggage and headed out for lunch.

Shinjuku Prince Hotel is conveniently located next to the entertainment district of Kabukicho. As we walked around and surveyed the food options, we came across a branch of ICHIRAN ramen. It appeared to be empty at 12:15pm so we went in. Unbeknownst to us, the restaurant is located in the basement and there was a short queue of five people at the narrow staircase leading to the restaurant below. After passing through a door at the foot of the stairs, we placed our orders via the vending machines before joining a second queue at the small holding area inside.

It was a small restaurant with only 25 seats available. As all the seats were counter seats, it didn’t matter if we were seated separately so we went in as and when the seats became available. I was the last to get my seat at 12:40pm, so we “only” waited for 25 minutes, which is considered quite decent for ICHIRAN.

ICHIRAN is Japan’s number 1 tonkotsu (pork bone soup) ramen restaurant, with 81 outlets in Japan, three in New York, three in Hong Kong and three in Taiwan. I have dined here before and it is a unique experience.

As with most ramen restaurants in Japan, you place your order via a vending machine at the entrance. You’ll be issued a ticket upon making payment. While waiting in line, you’ll be handed an order sheet, which allows you to customise your preferences by indicating the richness of the broth and firmness of noodle texture, among other things. Once a seat is available, go to your assigned counter seat, hand your order sheet and ticket to the staff and wait for your ramen to be served.

The reason for the unique seating arrangement is because of ICHIRAN’s 15 second standard. The fresh noodles are time sensitive, and expand once they’re in the boiling water. Therefore, ICHIRAN strives to deliver your ramen from kitchen to your table within a 15-second window so you can enjoy exactly the texture you ordered. Anything over that limit is unacceptable, which is why all seats are within arm’s length. And each bowl of ramen is crafted one at a time, to be served at their best moment. Hence, there is no need to wait for your companions, so all the seats are individual counter seats, making it a unique dining experience. Perfect for solo diners and introverts too.

The Classic Tonkotsu Ramen costs only 1,080 yen (S$9.72) but we ordered the ICHIRAN Select 5 (1,720 yen/S$15.48), which consists of the Classic Tonkotsu Ramen plus dried seaweed, 4 pieces of extra sliced pork, Kirurage mushroom and half-boiled salted egg. Go big or go home! With the favourable exchange rate, a bowl of ramen at ICHIRAN is actually cheaper compared to Singapore, and you can’t get the same quality for sure. That’s why so many Singaporeans made a beeline to Japan in 2024.

As always, the ramen was delicious and I finished every drop of the broth. After having our stomachs filled, we did a spot of quick shopping before heading back to our hotel at 1:30pm. Our rooms were on the 17^th floor and it was surprisingly large by Tokyo standards. The walkway was a bit narrow and there was no wardrobe (just a rack to hang your clothes) but it came with three beds and a reasonably spacious bathroom. I loved the curved door of the bathroom.

After a shower to freshen up, we left our hotel at 2:45pm and walked to Shinjuku Station to settle some admin matters first. Without our luggage, it was easier to move around, and Shinjuku became more familiar and navigable. There were some major construction works ongoing but we managed to locate the Odakyu Sightseeing Service Center at the basement of Shinjuku West.

Here, we purchased two passes for our upcoming travels. The first was the Enoshima-Kamakura Freepass (click here), which cost 1,640 yen (S$14.76). This is a 1-day pass that allows for unlimited rides on all Enoden lines and designated sections of Odakyu lines, and a round-trip ticket on the Odakyu line between Shinjuku and Fujisawa. We would be doing this as a day trip on Day 3. You can also buy a digital ticket for this Enoshima-Kamakura Freepass but I opted for physical tickets because it would be more convenient compared to fumbling with mobile phones at the ticket gantry.

The second pass we bought was the Fuji Hakone Pass (click here), which cost 10,100 yen (S$90.90). This is a 3-day pass that allows for unlimited rides in the Fuji-Hakone area and a round-trip ticket on the Odakyu line between Shinjuku and Odawara. We would be doing this from Days 4 to 6. There is only a physical ticket option for this Fuji Hakone Pass.

After obtaining the two passes, we proceeded to the Tokyo Metro Pass Office nearby to buy our Tokyo Subway Tickets (click here). This ticket comes in three options – 24-hour ticket (800 yen), 48-hour ticket (1,200 yen) and 72-hour ticket (1,500 yen). It is a special ticket only available to tourists so you’ll need to bring your passport along to verify your status.

The ticket allows unlimited use of all subway lines operated by Tokyo Metro and Toei Subway, limited to 24, 48 or 72 hours from first use, i.e. it is based on a 24/48/72-hour time period, not by date/day of use. This is great, especially if you arrive Tokyo in the afternoon and with half the day already gone. We would later find out that a similar ticket in Osaka uses a different system and goes by date/day instead of time period.

Fares on the Tokyo Metro depend on the distance travelled, and it ranges from 180 yen (1km to 6km) to 330 yen (28km to 40km). We bought the 48-hour ticket (1,200 yen) for our two days of free-and-easy in Tokyo. Using the second-lowest fare of 210 yen (7km to 11km) as reference, we will need to make six trips to break even, which is perfectly achievable. But more than dollars and cents, it is the flexibility and convenience it provides that makes it a great option for all travellers. It certainly saves you the hassle of buying a ticket for each ride. With all the admin tasks done, we were finally ready to explore Tokyo!

We utilised our shiny, new Tokyo Subway Tickets for the first time. At 3:24pm, we hopped on the Metro train at Shinjuku station and took the red Marunouchi Line to Akasaka-mitsuke station, where we transferred to the yellow Ginza Line. The train was so crowded, even though it wasn’t rush hour yet. The seats are very cramped and you literally sit shoulder-to-shoulder to the person next to you. What I like is that the trains are equipped with overhead shelves, so you can place your bags there to free up more standing space.

We arrived at Asakusa station at 4:01pm and made our way to Kaminarimon (Thunder Gate), which is the outer gate of the historic Sensō-ji Temple. Kaminarimon, with its huge red lantern bearing the Kanji characters 雷門, is one of the most iconic images of Tokyo. Unsurprisingly, it was very crowded, with many tourist jostling for space to get a shot with the famous red lantern.

After stepping through Thunder Gate, it was the start of Nakamise-dori, a 250-metre-long shopping street dating back to the 17^th century. This lively street has over 90 stalls selling all kinds of souvenirs and interesting foodstuff. We browsed the stalls slowly as we made our way towards Hozomon Gate, which stands at the other end of Nakamise-dori.

After stepping through Hozomon Gate, we were in the grounds of Sensō-ji Temple. This is a Buddhist temple dedicated to the Goddess of Mercy, Guan Yin, pronounced as Kannon in Japanese. Thus, the temple is also known as Asakusa Kannon. The temple was established in 645 AD, making it the oldest temple in Tokyo.

I stayed at a hostel in Asakusa when I was here in 2013 and I walked past Sensō-ji Temple every day on my way to the Metro station, so I’ve seen the temple early in the morning and at night with much fewer people around. However, it was still nice to revisit this area and soak up the atmosphere. This is one of Tokyo’s top attractions so it is always full of activity.

On the way out of Nakamise-dori, I chanced upon a shop selling very adorable rugs with dog prints. Both designs were nice and I couldn’t decide which one was better so I bought both. One thing I love about Japanese culture is how they are able to make everything kawaii (cute) and they are unabashedly unapologetic about it.

After spending about an hour at Asakusa, we left at 5:20pm and took the Metro back to Shinjuku. I initially considered visiting Ueno but we were all starting to feel the effects of the red-eye flight so we decided not to be too ambitious for our first day in Tokyo. We then split up to do our own shopping so mum, dad and I walked on our own while FL, AL and AA went to the Bic Camera store.

For dinner, I brought mum and dad to an izakaya restaurant called Hakuri-Tabai-Hanbey, or Hanbey for short. During my visit in 2013, my friend brought me to the outlet at Shimokitazawa (which has closed down) and I loved the concept so I wanted to let mum and dad experience it. Hanbey currently has seven outlets in Tokyo outlets and several more in Japan. We went to the outlet on the third floor of Toukaien Building, 1-6-3, Kabukicho.

It took us a while to locate the restaurant on Google Maps because the buildings are all lined up next to each other and I can’t read Japanese so I can’t tell which is the correct building. We took a tiny elevator to access Hanbey on the third floor. The amazing thing about such small restaurants in Japan is that many of them are located on the upper floors of these skinny, tall buildings, with no incidental human traffic. Yet, they are still able to survive because the locals know where they are.

The staff asked if we made a reservation, to which I said no, but thankfully it was still early so they were able to accommodate us. As we had our meal, more and more diners streamed in and they were all locals. We were the only tourists there.

Hanbey is an izakaya with a “Showa era” theme, the period from 1926 to 1989, which coincides with the reign of Emperor Hirohito. It aims to evoke nostalgia for older patrons by bringing back memories of their younger days. For those in their prime working years, it sparks a sense of nostalgia for their childhood.

The décor here was exactly like the one at Shimokitazawa I went to 11 years ago, which made me very happy. Everywhere, we were surrounded by vintage signboards and advertising posters, retro toys like Astroboy figurines. The music was incredibly old-school as well. It felt like we had been transported back to half a century ago via a time machine. It was super cool and I loved it.

In line with the nostalgic theme, Hanbey also strives to keep prices affordable. We ordered a variety of yakitori, takoyaki, Agadashi tofu and drinks and the total bill came up to 3,707 yen (S$33.36), which was pretty reasonable. You can also order extra servings of the super crunchy and sweet cabbage for free. The locals go to izakayas for drinks (beer or alcoholic drinks) and the cabbage are meant to be appetisers to go along with the drinks while they socialise.

After the satisfying dinner, we left Hanbey at 7:30pm. By a stroke of coincidence, my old friend AK also happened to be in Tokyo at the same time. I contacted him and made plans to meet up with him, while mum and dad made their way back to the hotel to rest. Before meeting AK, I made a quick stop at the HMV Record Shop located at Shinjuku ALTA. I managed to dig out a few gems here.

I then walked over to the Muji store to meet AK and his family. We just stood outside the store to have a chat. It is funny how incredibly difficult it is to meet in Singapore, yet we can both be in Tokyo at the same time and meet up here. Nice catch up, as always!

After that, I walked through Kabukicho to soak up the atmosphere before going back to the hotel and calling it a day. A long and tiring day of travelling, but a good one. Always happy to be back in Tokyo, one of my favourite cities on earth!