Day 6: 16 May 2024, Thursday

And just like that, it was the last day of our Jeju RTI. Having decided not to do the sunrise trek up Seongsan Ilchulbong Peak, I slept in and woke up at 6:35am this morning. It turned out to be the right decision because today would prove to be the most difficult among the four days of cycling. The distance to cover from Seongsan to Jeju-si was 58km, with an elevation gain of 353 metres and three checkpoints along the way. By this time, our bodies were attuned to the rigours of cycling already so we were not worried about the distance and elevation, but our biggest challenge today would be the weather conditions.

Like the previous days, the temperature was a cool 15 degrees C at 7:00am before rising to a maximum of 21 degrees in the afternoon. However, there would be windy conditions all day. Last night, IH came across a special weather report online about a Wind Advisory being issued, effective from 5:58am today, where all the coastal areas of South Korea, and practically the entire Jeju island, will experience strong winds. With that in mind, we braced ourselves for a hard day of riding.

As there were no nice cafes in Seongsan, we didn’t have breakfast before setting off. I did eat a small protein energy bar but that was all. The plan was to cycle for an hour and have breakfast at one of the cafes along the way. At 8:00am, we checked out of our Blue Mountain Hotel and started riding.

From the moment we left our hotel, the wind was upon us. I put on my Decathlon jacket to protect myself from the wind chill but my nose was soon “leaking” from the cold. The first checkpoint at Seongsan Ilchulbong was just 10 minutes away from our hotel. We quickly collected our stamps and moved on.

The coastal scenery was as spectacular as ever but being next to the coast meant that there was nothing to shield us from the full force of the winds. At some points, we were cycling at speeds of around 8.8km/hour, a snail’s pace considering the flat terrain. To help ZY and IH conserve energy, we cycled abreast in a 2×2 formation, with PL and me in front facing the headwinds while sheltering IH and ZY behind us.

We desperately searched for a decent café to have breakfast but nothing came up until 9:30am at Hado town. I spotted a white building with the words “CAFÉ” and “COFFEE” and signalled to the rest to make a stop there. This was Café Gaein Juuija. After parking our bicycles, we entered the café to see if it was open. The lights were on but there was no one inside.

Just as we were about to be disappointed, a sprightly elderly lady came running into the café to welcome us. She was out on the lawn enjoying a cup of tea and the ocean view before we disturbed her. Relieved that the café was open, we ordered potato cream soup, waffles, sandwiches and coffee. The bill came up to 70,000 won (S$70). The lady boss single-handedly prepared all the food for us, and honestly, everything was so good.

The café was very cosy and nicely furnished with memorabilia that she had collected during her past travels to Europe. She spoke good English and told us that her husband is a windsurfer, and that they travel for three months every year to escape the cold winter in Jeju. I really loved her place. It was so homely, with comfortable sofas, chairs and soothing classical music playing in the background. And of course, the ocean view was lovely as well. We were so pleased to discover such a gem when we were so desperate for a breakfast spot.

After refuelling, we continued our ride with renewed vigour but the persistent wind sapped our energy and our progress was very slow. Along the way, we passed by Sehwa Beach, some massive wind turbines and Woljeong-ri Beach. I tried to enjoy the view as much as I could because I knew it would all be over soon.

We continued to push ourselves all the way to the next checkpoint at Gimnyeong Seongsegi Beach, which we reached at 12:13pm. We didn’t linger for long as we were only around halfway through the day’s ride. After collecting our stamps, we took a short break before pressing on.

After leaving Gimnyeong Seongsegi Beach, we faced our toughest challenge when we hit the main road as it was a very long stretch of uphill with no scenery, and the midday sun was bearing down on us. Everyone was struggling so I suggested playing a game as a form of distraction. For the game, we each took turns to name food dishes, and then brands or company names, starting with different letters of the alphabet, from A to Z. It was a good way to keep our minds off the gruelling task at hand, and it did help to pass the time faster.

When we finally reached the next checkpoint at Hamdeok Seoubong Beach at 1:15pm and collected the last of 10 stamps on our bike passports, I was totally drained. I had never felt that way during the past three days of cycling. The headwind really sapped all my energy and I had nothing left in my tank. I was surprised when PL said he felt the same way too, which tells you how tiring it was because PL is the fittest among us all.

Thankfully, there were many restaurants available here so we turned to our comfort food, Lotteria, for lunch. I ordered the extra-large pork cutlet burger while the others had the Bulgogi burger. The Lotteria burger, fries and Coke never tasted so good.  

We left Hamdeok Seoubong Beach at 2:35pm for the final stretch back to Jeju-si. We originally wanted to make a coffee stop at the next beach but we missed it, so we decided to press on. Upon entering the city, the terrain became very hilly. IH and ZY were struggling quite badly but PL (literally) pushed ZY and kept her going.

We made a slight detour to Jeju Green Bike shop because I wanted to see if they sold any cycling jerseys with special designs bearing the South Korean flag or name, which would make a good souvenir to bring home. However, I was disappointed to find that they only carried gear from Trek and did not have what I was looking for.

Deflated, we trudged on to the Jeju City Tourist Information Center at Yongduam, arriving at 5:15pm. We were back to where we started – this was the first checkpoint where we collected our first stamp four days ago. IH and I presented our completed bike passports with all the 10 stamps to the staff at the visitor centre. They registered our details into the computer system and affixed a silver seal sticker on another page in the passport, certifying that we have completed the Jeju Fantasy Bicycle Path. They also gave us a small round sticker that we could paste onto our bicycle helmets as a badge of honour. After four days of cycling around Jeju island, we have completed our mission!

We then cycled to Antoinette café for our celebratory meal. When we arrived at 5:30pm, there were not many pastries left so we swept the shelf clean. This was our final reward and a full circle moment because we were here on the morning of Day 2, before we embarked on the RTI. Couldn’t ask for a better way to end our cycling adventure at one of our favourite cafes in Jeju.

From Antoinette, we cycled back to Whistle Lark Hotel and officially ended our ride at 6:35pm. The final distance for today was 67.3km, with an elevation gain of 351 metres. For our four days of Jeju RTI, our total cycling distance was 248.16km. It was slightly longer than the official 234km distance for the Jeju Fantasy Bicycle Path because we made some detours here and there.

After removing all our accessories from the bicycles and restoring them back to their original state, we informed Travel Wander that they could pick the bicycles up. We then checked in to our rooms and took a well-deserved shower. It had been a tough day of cycling and we were all physically tired. However, since it was the last night, we mustered our energy to go out for a walk.

We went to our favourite Martro supermarket to buy Korean snacks and souvenir foodstuff to bring back to Singapore. PL is a snack monster so he bought a lot of snacks, resulting in IH and I also being influenced to buy a fair amount. We then went back to the hotel to unload our purchases before heading out again. PL preferred to rest in the room so only the three of us went out again for dinner.

We couldn’t decide on what to eat but ZY suggested something soupy like noodles. It sounded good after a day of being exposed to strong winds. IH heard about a Noodles Street but NAVER Map showed that it was rather far away so we looked for something nearby. We walked rather aimlessly, along Sanjicheon Stream towards Dongmun Market. It was 8:30pm so many of the restaurants were already closed. When we reached Tamna Culture Plaza 10 minutes later, we came across a restaurant selling Jeju Noodle Pork Cutlet.

There was no one else in the restaurant. In fact, we were the last customers as it was about to close soon. The interior décor looked more like a Japanese restaurant but it was warm and nice inside. I ordered the Jeju Pork Bone Spicy Noodle (12,000 won/S$12). The broth was good and the meat was quite tender. We also had beer to celebrate the occasion.

After dinner, we walked to Dongmun Market across the road, where I bought two oranges for 5,000 won (S$5). We then went back to our hotel and popped over to PL’s room to eat the orange and strawberries we bought from Martro earlier. We originally wanted to play Bridge but we were too tired by then so we called it a night at around 10:15pm.

Day 7: 17 May 2024, Friday

Woke up at 6:00am today and had breakfast at our hotel, which was included. We then checked out of the hotel at 7:00am and booked a car via the Kakao T app to take us to the airport. The ride lasted 12 minutes and the metered fare was 6,800 won (S$6.80). I had a small moment of panic when I realised that our driver had dropped us at the Domestic terminal, but thankfully, the International terminal was right next door. There were not many food options inside the Departure hall – only a small bakery and a small “food court”. There were also two Duty Free shops and a couple of souvenir shops. It was a very simple and basic airport.

Our Scoot flight TR813 was supposed to depart at 9:10am but take-off was delayed by almost an hour because of air traffic congestion at Jeju International Airport. At the other end, there was also congestion at Changi Airport so our landing was delayed as air traffic control instructed our pilot to do two holds. So our plane flew two circles in the air before resuming our descent towards Changi Airport. We eventually touched down at Terminal 1 at 2:30pm, 15 minutes behind schedule. Back home safely, and that concludes our Jeju RTI trip. A few tired legs, but a lifetime of beautiful memories!

Here’s a video clip of the highlights from Day 6 & 7:

Closing Thoughts

Overall, cycling in Jeju is very easy because the route is clearly marked out with a blue line on the ground. Granted, there were some parts where the blue line had faded so it wasn’t visible, and there was one short section where the line was red instead of blue (I don’t know why!), but overall, it is impossible to get lost cycling in Jeju because the route is very straightforward. There are also signs by the side of the road indicating the distance to the next checkpoint, and these distance markers are also painted on the ground. So, navigation is not an issue at all.

For those who are worried about traffic, I am pleased to say that the traffic in Jeju is not heavy. Even when there is no dedicated cycling lane on the road and you have to cycle next to the kerb (which is minimal), it is safe because the traffic is light. Some sections of the official route require you to cycle on the pavement, but because the pavement is slightly bumpy, we elected to cycle on the road, and it was not a problem.

I must say that Travel Wander did a good job with the logistics. The mountain bikes were new and in great condition. Pouches, locks and tools were provided. I did not have any issues with my bicycle, but IH and PL experienced some minor gear issues with their bicycles. However, our “mechanic” PL fixed them in a jiffy so it was not a big problem.

Luggage transfer arranged by Travel Wander was smooth too. Luggage tags with Travel Wander’s company logo were sent to us beforehand and we attached the tags to our suitcases using the cable ties provided. Each day, our luggage arrived at our hotel way before we did.

Communication with Travel Wander was good. Before coming on the trip, they sent us a comprehensive document with information on pre-departure and arrival entry requirements into Korea, a detailed checklist on things to bring and prepare, clear information about how the luggage transfer will work, important apps to download, a list of emergency contact numbers, a summary of the itinerary with distance and elevation each day, and a list of our accommodation with their addresses. While in Jeju, they also created a WhatsApp chat group and updated us on luggage arrival and other important admin matters. They were also very responsive to our queries.

The hotels they selected were good overall. All of them were clean and safe, and in good locations. The choice of Daejeong as a stop for the second night was perhaps a bit questionable as there was nothing much around the hotel, but it was nice to be in a small town for a change.

We noticed that Team Max also stayed at the same hotels as us for all the stops. I wonder if Travel Wander copied their itinerary, or was it the other way around? I note that Team Max also chose to stay a night at Daejeong, so perhaps that was the most logical place to stop over.

Actually, you can easily do this Jeju RTI on your own without engaging Travel Wander or a tour company. You just need to rent a bicycle from a shop near the airport and book your own hotels. The only challenge is to arrange for luggage transfer, but I saw that Travel Wander engaged a company called Gabang Please (click here) to move our luggage from hotel to hotel each day, and they did a good job. For a larger group, you can perhaps save some money by doing it yourself, but overall, we felt it was the right choice to engage Travel Wander for a fuss-free trip.

We initially considered joining the guided tour by Team Max but I’m glad we went with Travel Wander for the self-guided option because I don’t think there was much that Team Max could have value added. Having a support vehicle is good if you really need to drop out, but most decently-fit people should be able to complete the Jeju RTI without much problems.

Along the way, there are many cafes and convenience stores so you can easily stop to get food or water on your own. Mountain bikes are perfect for the terrain, and they are generally hardier and less prone to tyre punctures. Having a local guide would of course be beneficial to provide more insight about the places we visit and the local way of life. That was something we missed out on, but considering all the pros and cons, I think the self-guided tour with Travel Wander was the correct choice.

We were also very blessed with almost perfect weather. It was cloudy the first two days and it rained at night on the second day, but the gloomy weather cleared up by the time we started cycling on the third day. We had sunny blue skies for our four days of cycling, and the temperature was just right – not too hot or cold. The only challenge was the fourth day when we encountered the strong winds, which made the cycling much more tiring, but it was good to experience that. We were lucky we only had the strong winds on the fourth day and not the first, because otherwise ZY and IH would have really struggled to complete the ride, especially since the first day was the longest distance.

I am also thankful that there were no injuries or any incidents that could have soured the trip. I am grateful for the great company, the companionship and the laughs. It was perfect in every way, and I’m so happy with how everything turned out. I hope to do it again in the future, perhaps…cycle from Seoul to Busan next year? 🙂