How It All Began

To be honest, South Korea was not on the top of my list of places to visit. I am not a big fan of kimchi or K-Pop, and have resisted the Korean wave for a long time. However, I recently started watching some K-Dramas like Squid Game, All Of Us Are Dead and Crash Landing On You (which are all terrific productions), and I started warming up to South Korea a little.

After my Taiwan Round-The-Island (RTI) cycling trip last May with TH and AT, we started thinking about where else we could go to cycle. TH brought up his idea of “bikepacking” around Jeju island in South Korea, carrying all our supplies and pitching tents at campsites along the way. It was very adventurous and sounded fun, but would require a fair bit of planning.

At the same time, my other cycling buddy PL had blocked his leave almost a year in advance for May 2024, with the intention of doing the Taiwan RTI this year since he missed out on it last year. I considered joining him for Taiwan again because I had such a great experience last time round. However, in late January 2024, when Giant Adventure finalised the May dates for this year’s Taiwan RTI, they were not compatible with PL’s leave dates, so it looked like PL would not be doing any cycling trip this year.

I then suggested to PL to go for a shorter and less ambitious cycling trip in Jeju instead, since his leave was already blocked. We managed to rope in PL’s wife ZY, and our other friend IH for the trip. Sadly, our other cycling buddy KP could not make it. Sadly too, TH and AT had another trip booked during the same period so they could not join us. With the four of us on board, we started to discuss the trip more seriously. We preferred to focus on cycling and enjoy the ride without worrying about logistics. I did some homework and shortlisted a couple of companies that ran cycling tours in Jeju.

The first company we considered was Team Max Adventure (click here), which specialises in adventure tours in Korea, including cycling, kayaking and hiking tours. We looked at their Fantastic Jeju Island Bike Tour (click here), a 4-day package at 1,110,000 Korean won (around S$1,100) per person, with a minimum of 6 riders. The package includes an English-speaking tour guide, bike rental, support vehicle, 3 nights’ accommodation and most meals (3 B, 4 L, 3 D).

Team Max also offers a self-guided version of the Jeju tour (click here) at 500,000 won (S$500) per person, with a minimum of 2 riders. It follows essentially the same itinerary as the guided version including accommodation and luggage transfer service, but excludes a tour guide, meals and ferry tickets to/from Udo Island.

The second company I shortlisted was Travel Wander (click here), a Singapore-based travel agent specialising in active holidays and bespoke travel. They offer a whole suite of tours in many countries, not just Korea. We looked at their Jeju Round Island Self-Guided Tour (click here), a 6-day package at S$1,936 for two persons, or S$968 per person. The package includes 5 nights’ accommodation, 2 breakfasts, luggage transfer service and mountain bike rental.  

Ultimately, our decision boiled down to a few factors – self-guided vs guided tour, which company offered a better itinerary, and price.

After my 9-day Taiwan RTI last year, I really enjoyed the experience of having local guides and a support van to provide drinks and snacks. But after weighing the pros and cons, we decided to go for the self-guided option because it is only 4 days of cycling in Jeju and the route is very straightforward. Jeju has a well-established cycling network called the Jeju Fantasy Bicycle Path, a 234km-long bike path around the entire island, so cycling on your own is perfectly doable.

There are also many cafes and convenience stores along the way, so we can easily stop for refreshment breaks if needed. Furthermore, we were a small group so we preferred to have more flexibility to stop whenever we felt like it. Compared to Taiwan, Jeju’s terrain is generally flatter, and the cycling distance each day is not as long, so it would be a more relaxing ride too. Based on these reasons, self-guided was the best option for us. The next consideration was the itinerary.

Team Max’s itinerary includes two nights at Seongsan because the third day is for a sunrise hike up Seongsan Ilchulbong (volcano cone) and a day trip to the nearby Udo Island for cycling there. Team Max’s itinerary is as such: Day 1 Jeju city to Seogwipo (81km), Day 2 Seogwipo to Seongsan (83km), Day 3 Udo Island bike tour (25km), Day 4 Seongsan to Jeju city (61.5km).

Travel Wander’s itinerary excludes the excursion to Udo Island so it has a stop at a different town (Chaguido) for the first night. Travel Wander’s itinerary is as such: Day 1 Jeju city to Chaguido (73.9km), Day 2 Chaguido to Seogwipo (41.9km), Day 3 Seogwipo to Seongsan (57.4km), Day 4 Seongsan to Jeju city (58.6km).

We evaluated that Travel Wander’s itinerary is better because the cycling distance each day will be more manageable for ZY and IH, who are not as experienced in long-distance cycling. Team Max’s itinerary entails a longer ride on the first day from Jeju city to Seogwipo.

[During our trip, we ran into another group from Team Max and discovered that they stayed at the same hotels as us for the entire duration. I also discovered that Chaguido is part of Seogwipo city, so it appears that both Team Max and Travel Wander share a similar itinerary (with the exception of Udo Island), so the cycling distance for the first day is actually the same for both companies. Or perhaps the Team Max group we encountered was following a different itinerary from the one stated on the website, I’m not sure.]

In terms of price, Team Max’s self-guided package is about S$500 cheaper than Travel Wander’s. The key differences lie in the number of accommodation and meals. Travel Wander’s package includes 2 more nights of accommodation in Jeju city, before and after the 4 days of cycling. However, Team Max’s package included most meals whereas Travel Wander provided only 2 breakfasts. Thus, if based on price alone, Team Max’s package is actually more competitive.

[We later also booked an additional night in the same hotel (Whistle Lark) on our own, and discovered that hotels in Jeju city are not that expensive, so the S$500 price difference was more than enough to cover the 2 nights of accommodation in Jeju city.]

In the end, we chose to go with Travel Wander because we preferred their itinerary and the flexibility to choose our own restaurants for meals. We booked the tour with them on 5 April, a little over a month before our departure date on 11 May 2024.

Travel Wander’s package covers 6 days, with cycling to start on Day 2. However, we wanted an additional rest day in Jeju city before starting our ride. Hence, we extended a day on our own and it became a 7-day trip, from 11 to 17 May 2024. We booked an additional night at Whistle Lark Hotel in Jeju city on our own, and it cost 95,000 won (about S$95) for a twin-sharing room.

For our outbound travel, there was no direct flight from Singapore to Jeju on 11 May 2024 so we went with China Eastern airlines, which involves a 3 hour 25-minute stopover at Shanghai. The air ticket cost S$419.70, including two checked bags of 23kg each. We booked the flight through Expedia.

For our inbound travel, we went with a direct Scoot flight from Jeju to Singapore. It cost S$251.02, including 20kg checked baggage. I also bought travel insurance for S$35.60 and an eSIM mobile data plan from Yoowifi for S$18.13. Hence, my fixed expenses for this 7-day Jeju trip were around S$1,740. With everything in place, we were all set!

(Exchange rate: S$1 = 1,012 Korean won / 1,000 won = slightly less than S$1)

Day 1: 11 May 2024, Saturday

On Friday night, I went to Changi Airport Terminal 3 for a late dinner with mum and dad before meeting up with my travel companions IH, PL and ZY at around 10:40pm to check in for our flight. We departed Singapore on our China Eastern flight MU544 on Saturday at 12:55am. The aircraft had a 2-4-2 seating configuration so we were able to sit together in the same row, in the middle block.

The flight time from Singapore to Shanghai was 4 hours 50 minutes. A meal was served at 1:55am but I was still full so I didn’t eat. IH had the beef noodles and he said it was quite good. I tried to catch some sleep during the flight but I wasn’t very successful because I couldn’t get into a comfortable position and my bum hurt from sitting down for so long.

We touched down at Shanghai Pudong International Airport at 5:52am and took a shuttle train to Terminal 1 for our connecting flight to Jeju. Surprisingly, there were not many shops and restaurants at Terminal 1 so our dining options were limited. You would have thought that Shanghai is such a big city and important business centre in China that the airport should be very impressive, but it wasn’t. We went to Hope Star café and I ordered a ham & cheese sandwich and a cup of hot latte for my breakfast. It cost a hefty CNY101 (S$18.95), but at least the sandwich and coffee were good.

We hung out at Hope Café until 9:00am, when it was time to board our flight MU5059. This aircraft was smaller, with a 3-3 seating configuration. There were no meals onboard but a bottle of water was provided. It was drizzling lightly when we departed Shanghai at 9:45am, and we landed at Jeju International Airport at 12:20pm local time (South Korea is 1 hour ahead of Singapore and Shanghai).

Immigration clearance was a breeze and we were out of the airport half an hour later. I tried to book a taxi using the Kakao T app but somehow, my credit card was rejected so we went to the taxi rank outside the Arrival hall. There was a line of taxis outside so we didn’t have to wait. We initially wanted to get two taxis because of our luggage, but we managed to fit everything into one taxi. We left the airport at 12:55pm and arrived at our Whistle Lark Hotel 15 minutes later. The metered fare was only 7,500 won (S$7.50), very affordable.

Check-in was officially at 3:00pm so we deposited our luggage at the hotel and searched for a place for lunch in the meantime. The temperature outside was a cool 20 degrees Celcius. It was cloudy but not raining, perfect weather without having to put on a jacket. Next to Whistle Lark was a row of seafood restaurants with all kinds of funny-looking live seafood being kept in tanks. PL is not really into seafood so we explored other options.

Not far away from our hotel was Black Pork Street, with many restaurants selling the famed Jeju meat. Black pork comes from a Korean breed of domestic pig that originates from Jeju island. It is a small pig with black skin and hair, but the meat itself is the usual colour, not black. We decided to save that for another day. We eventually settled for a Korean restaurant called Sanji Mul.

For our first meal in Korea, we didn’t want to be too adventurous so PL and I ordered a serving of the pork cutlet each. We also ordered a bowl of abalone porridge (a local specialty) and the grilled mackerel fish. As usual, the meal was accompanied by an array of side dishes like bean sprouts, tofu, black fungus and others. We also got a bottle of local Cass beer. Nothing beats ice-cold beer, shiok! The cutlet was huge and yummy, but the mackerel fish was the best. Not surprising because seafood is plentiful in Jeju and it is all freshly caught from the sea. The bill came up to 63,000 won (S$63) and it was a very satisfying lunch.

With our tummies filled, we walked around the vicinity to get a feel of our neighbourhood. We realised that our hotel’s location was very good because it was near the key shopping areas and there were many amenities nearby like a big MARTRO supermarket and McDonald’s.

We walked over to Tapdong Plaza, a large open space beside the coast and breakwater. There were several basketball courts and sports facilities for the public to use. As it was a Saturday, many locals were out enjoying the afternoon breeze, with their kids cycling around or playing football. It was great to see the locals having a good time.

After the leisurely stroll, we went back to Whistle Lark to check in. The room was large and clean, with a double bed and a single bed, big enough for three people. There was also a balcony. Unfortunately, our room had a mountain view and not the ocean view, so we had a cloudy view of Hallasan in the distance. Hallasan is 1,947m tall and it is the highest mountain in all of South Korea, not just in Jeju.

After a shower and a nap, we headed out again at 5:00pm. We walked along Sanjicheon Stream and soon reached Tamna Cultural Square. A large crowd had gathered here to celebrate Buddha’s birthday, which falls on 15 May this year. They were singing songs along with the choir and band.

We crossed the road and reached Gates 2 and 3 of Dongmun Traditional Market. Dongmun is the largest and oldest permanent market in Jeju and it is a must visit destination. There are 12 entrance gates altogether so that tells you how big it is. Perhaps because it was the weekend, it was very crowded when we visited.

There was so much to see here, with many stalls selling tangerines, dried food products, souvenirs, chocolates and other interesting items. There was also a wet market section with vegetables, fruits and of course, live seafood. The market was like a labyrinth with many twists and turns, with surprises at every corner.

We eventually wandered to the street food section at Gate 8. This was the most crowded section of all because it was 5:35pm, which means it’s dinner time. Upon walking in, our attention was immediately captured by a series of four stalls selling grilled seafood and rolled pork. But what made this stall stand out was the fact that catchy K-Pop music was blasting from the speakers and its chefs were all dancing and singing while cooking. Their energy was infectious and they sure knew how to put on a show.

We were captivated by their showmanship and bought the Family Set for 37,000 won (S$37), comprising of a whole lobster, rolled pork and snow crab fried rice. To complete our dinner, ZY and PL also bought grilled prawns and scallops from another stall for 8,000 won (S$8) and grilled squid for 15,000 won (S$15).

As we browsed the market, I came across a shop selling freshly squeezed tangerine juice and saw a sign that said “Welcome outside food, 1 drink per person”. I confirmed with the shopkeeper that we could sit inside her shop to eat our food bought from other stalls, as long as each person purchased a drink from her stall. It sounded like a good deal so the four of us bought a bottle of tangerine juice for 7,000 won (S$7) each, and went in to have our meal.

It was nice and cosy inside, like a hidden paradise, with a beer garden setting and strings of lights overhead. It was perfect because there were no proper tables or seating areas at the street food section outside so we would have to stand and eat otherwise. Here, we could have our dinner in peace, at a comfortable, quiet spot away from the noise and hustle outside.

Among the food we tried, the grilled prawns and scallops were the best. The squid was alright and the garlic/cheese lobster was not bad. The pork roll was large and filling but the kimchi sauce was a bit too spicy and overpowering. The snow crab fried rice was a total rip-off because there was very little meat in those skinny crab legs. Overall, we felt that the Family Set was definitely overpriced, so lesson learnt…don’t be seduced by flashy antics!

There was a lot more interesting food but we were stuffed so we left Dongmun Market around 7:00pm. It started to rain so we sought shelter at Jeju Jungang Shopping Mall. This underground shopping mall has 390 stores spread over its eastern and western wings. Majority of the shops sold ladies apparel but there were also shops selling men’s apparel, children’s apparel, casual wear, shoes and bags, beauty products and accessories. The mall was very dated and it gave off Lucky Plaza retro vibes. The ladies’ clothes on sale reminded us of This Fashion, a budget fashion retail chain that was very popular in Singapore around the turn of the millennium but abruptly closed down in 2011.

Korea is famous for their skincare products so many people, especially the ladies, stock up on things like facial masks, sunscreen and lotions when they visit South Korea. Innisfree was having a big sale so I bought a tube of the Aloe Revital Soothing Gel. It cost only 3,500 won (S$3.50) after 50% discount so it was a great buy.  

Before coming on the trip, I had researched on CD shops in Jeju and I found two. One of them, Bono Record, was located here at Jeju Jungang Shopping Mall, unit 147-1. It was a tiny shop but it was well-stocked with domestic titles and a smaller section of international titles. The shop carried a few MJ albums but they were the standard EU/US pressings, which I already have in my collection. But I managed to find two Korean CD pressings of the Dangerous (15,000 won/S$15) and Xscape (19,000 won/S$19) albums, so I bought them. Happy with my mini haul!

After that, we went back to street level and found ourselves at Chilsung-ro Fashion Street. This street is considered the Orchard Road of Jeju, with many international fashion brands like Lacoste, Nike and New Balance. There are also other trendy fashion brands and boutiques located in the adjoining covered arcade known as Chilsung-ro Shopping Town.

IH and I did a spot of window shopping here, popping in and out of the shops but not really buying anything. We took a while so PL and ZY went back to the hotel first. We walked past a stall selling azuki beans cake, and bought a packet of 6 pieces for 2,000 won (S$2). They were so delicious, especially when piping hot. Comfort food for a cool and wet night.

We then made a trip to the huge MARTRO wholesale supermarket and bought some groceries. The strawberries looked so fresh that we couldn’t resist and we bought a punnet for 8,580 won. Little did we know that ZY and PL also bought a punnet on the way back to the hotel, so we ended up with two punnets of strawberries. After returning to the hotel, we gathered at PL and ZY’s room to feast on the strawberries. We then played card games (Dai Dee and Bridge) till 11:15pm before calling it a day. A short, but good first day!