England | Europe | This Was It Europe 2009

This Was It Europe 2009 – Day 9 (Stratford-upon-Avon / Oxford)

July 11, 2021

Day 9: 18 October 2009, Sunday

After the high of yesterday’s visit to Manchester, we had a much more relaxed day today. At about 9:20am, we set off from TH’s place in Coventry and made the short drive southwest to Stratford-upon-Avon, a small town famous for being the birthplace and final resting place of English playwright and poet William Shakespeare.

TH’s accommodation in Coventry, where he rented a room on the second floor from a landlord
TH’s nice neighbourhood in Coventry
The driver and our ride

The town of Stratford is situated on the River Avon (hence its name), 146km northwest of London and about 32km from Coventry. We arrived at 10am, when it was still quiet on a Sunday morning. The town was charming, with plenty of brick houses and beautiful trees lining the streets. We took a slow stroll to the River Avon and checked out the places associated with Shakespeare, of which there were plenty.

Feeling chilly in Stratford-upon-Avon
Literally the corner shop
Lovely houses with brick walls

We passed by the Royal Shakespeare Theatre, a grand, thousand-seat theatre dedicated to William Shakespeare. It was undergoing refurbishment at the time. We also passed by the Courtyard Theatre (now known as The Other Place), which is operated by the Royal Shakespeare Company (RSC). Clearly, the legacy of Shakespeare permeates the town and students of English literature will love it here.

Royal Shakespeare Theatre
The Courtyard Theatre
To be, or not to be?
Nine Mens’ Morris was mentioned in Shakespeare’s A Midsummer Night’s Dream
Nine Mens’ Morris is an ancient game played on a square board. Here, the layout of the board is marked out on the ground by concrete or stone markers in the grass. 
The River Avon
Mood shot
Sights in Stratford-upon-Avon

We also went to the Holy Trinity Church, aka Shakespeare’s Church. This parish church was established over 1,000 years ago and it is Stratford’s oldest building. The Holy Trinity Church was where Shakespeare was baptised, where he worshipped and where he is buried.

Holy Trinity Church
Aka Shakespeare’s Church
Holy Trinity Church is Shakespeare’s final resting place
Hall’s Croft
Hall’s Croft is home to Shakespeare’s daughter and husband, Dr John Hall
Hall’s Croft is one of the five Shakespeare Houses in Stratford-upon-Avon

We then went to New Place, where there once stood a large Tudor residence that Shakespeare purchased in 1597. After returning from London, he lived the rest of his life in here before passing away in 1616. The house was demolished in 1759. Only the foundations have been preserved.

New Place, where Shakespeare once had a large Tudor residence here, which has since been demolished
The Elizabethan-style knott garden at New Place

Directly opposite New Place was the Guild Chapel, a 13th century chapel. We went in to take a quick look before exploring the rest of the town. Along Chapel Street and High Street were several buildings with timber frames and whitewashed walls. I distinctively remember these because they resembled the ones at Tudor Court in Singapore.

Guild Chapel, one of the iconic buildings in Stratford-upon-Avon
Inside Guild Chapel
Scholars Lane, where intelligent people hang out
The distinctive buildings with timber frames and whitewashed walls at Chapel Street
HSBC occupying the Old Bank building
High Street
Everything here is about Shakespeare

We then reached Henley Street, where Shakespeare’s Birthplace is located. The house where Shakespeare was born in 1564 has timber frames like the ones in Chapel and High Streets, but its walls were painted beige instead of white. Shakespeare’s Birthplace is now a museum and access is via the modern-looking Shakespeare Centre building to its right. We didn’t pay to enter because we weren’t huge fans of literature.

The Shakespeare gift shop at Henley Street
Shakespeare’s Birthplace
The house is now a museum and the entrance is via Shakespeare Centre
The Shakespeare Centre
Entrance to the Shakespeare Centre and Shakespeare”s Birthplace
The Bard imposter
Not Shakespeare but Michael

We wrapped up our visit of Stratford-upon-Avon around noon, then continued our drive to Oxford. The purpose of coming to Oxford was to meet my cousin YS, who was studying here at the time. Compared to Stratford-upon-Avon, Oxford is much larger and bustling with commercial shops and huge crowds of people. The centre of Oxford is dominated by the University colleges. Over 9 million people visit Oxford each year.

Oxford is a bustling university city
For old time’s sake, Borders bookstore
Cornmarket Street, the major pedestrian shopping street in Oxford
Carfax Tower
The Quarterboys hammer out the quarter hour on a pair of late 19th century bells
Wayfinding in Oxford

At about 1:30pm, we met up with YS and had our lunch at a pub. I ordered an English breakfast set which came with two fat sausages and yummy bacon and it was superb. We had an enjoyable time catching up over lunch.

Always nice to catch up with family while overseas
This English breakfast was superb

After that, YS brought us on a short tour of the city centre, where we saw some of the historic sites like the Carfax Tower and Radcliffe Camera building. We then went to Linacre College and visited YS’ hostel room. Her room was sparsely furnished with a single bed and a desk but it was cosy enough. YS made us coffee and we continued chatting. It was really nice to have a familiar face while overseas and to spend time catching up on life.

The trio in Oxford
YS’ hostel room at Linacre College
A conducive space to study
Coffee break
With YS in Oxford
Linacre College

At about 4:15pm, we bade farewell to YS as we wanted to explore a bit more of Oxford. Being a Harry Potter fan, I was keen to check out some of the filming locations from the first movie in the series. We only got as far as Christ Church College but it was already past 4:30pm and many venues were about to close. Furthermore, we didn’t have Internet on our mobile phones back then so we couldn’t check where the other locations were.

Looks very Harry Potter-ish
Radcliffe Camera. The word Camera in Latin means “room”. It houses a library, not cameras.
Tom Tower, the Gothic-styled tower at Christ Church College
Details of Tom Tower
Christ Church College building

After snapping a few shots of the Christ Church College building, we made our way back to TH’s car. We were also mindful of time because it was another two-hour drive to London and we didn’t want to get in too late. As such, it was a slightly unfulfilled trip to Oxford as we didn’t have time to explore all the sights. Hopefully, I can return one day and do a Harry Potter Tour!

One last glimpse of Oxford before we leave