[The following post is from the archives of my In Search Of Incredible blog, originally published on 9 August 2013. Minor edits have since been made from the original post to update some links and info.]
1 April 2012, Sunday
Morning call: 7:30am
It’s our last morning in Hanoi, and after breakfast, I decided to quickly run back to a shop selling knock-off Crumpler bags to get a small camera bag that I had been eyeing and hesitating to buy for the past few days. Ahhh, sometimes I can be that indecisive. Luckily the shop opened early, and I managed to snag it for 350,000 VND (S$22).
After that mini-escapade, we checked out of our Hanoi Old Centre Hotel and hopped on our pre-arranged taxi, leaving at 9:57am. Traffic was mercifully kind so we arrived at the airport at 10:50am. As mum and dad’s Jetstar flight was earlier than mine, departing at 1:05pm, I bade them farewell at the departure gate. I would be seeing them again at home very soon – just one more week before the end of my trip!
I hung around the airport for around two hours, before I cleared customs at 1:15pm and had a final Vietnamese meal of beef pho and coffee inside the departure terminal. At 3:30pm, I bade Hanoi goodbye for good as I scooted away on my Vietnam Airlines flight VN 0837 towards Siem Reap.
Closing thoughts on Hanoi
In the two hours spent waiting to enter the departure hall, I had plenty of time to pen my thoughts in my diary, and gather my recollections of Hanoi.
Compared to my previous stops, I did not enjoy Hanoi as much. I think it was probably because the bar had been set so high already. And I had already established that I very much prefer countrysides/mountainsides to cities. Also because for Hanoi, I was staying in a nice hotel, mostly in the same location for consecutive nights, so it didn’t really feel like backpacking. And on the other stops, I was almost continually on the move, so I didn’t have the chance to feel restless.
Having said that, there were still plenty of good things I enjoyed about Hanoi:
Crazy motorbikes
It was a culture shock to see so many motorbikes on the road. Crossing the street was quite daunting at first but we quickly got the hang of it. It was quite fun to do it and see the bikes dodging you in a totally organized, chaotic way. And also to spot the newcomers to Hanoi, which you can easily identify by the way they hold hands and cross the road timidly.
Traditional straw hat hawkers
It was refreshing to still see traditional Vietnamese women wearing their characteristic pointed, conical straw hats, carrying two baskets supported by a bamboo stick slung over their shoulders, walking around and peddling their wares – from live fish to durians. I tried carrying the baskets with the bamboo pole, and my, was it heavy! Yet these ladies still carried them effortlessly and walked for long distances, respect.
Roadside hawker stalls
The best food I had in Hanoi was undeniably at the roadside stalls, which was cheap and good. The hawkers can set up their stalls anywhere – by the road, in front of jewellery shops – nothing is out of bounds. Being very economical with space and mobility, plastic stools and low tables are used instead of the usual taller ones. So it was very cute to see working class Vietnamese huddled in a group and perched on the stools enjoying their bowls of noodles during lunch hour. Definitely an experience not to be missed.
Halong Bay
The UNESCO Heritage Site was indeed a sight to behold. Endless mounds of hills stretching as far as the eye could see, sprinkled over the green waters of the bay. Kayaking was fun too. My advice: just spend one night on Halong Bay and give Cat Ba Island a miss.
I think overall, I like that Hanoi is a city that has retained its traditional charms and local flavour. It is slowly opening up but you don’t see many Western commercial brands yet. Case in point: the lone shopping centre we went to, Vincom Tower, was deserted and not popular at all. I didn’t even see any McDonald’s outlet anywhere in Hanoi.
The Old Quarter remains the cornerstone and heartbeat of Hanoi, and it was nice to see the locals going about their own ways of life, be it hawking on the streets or indulging in their paintings and handicraft. Hanoi is not modern yet, but it is not backward either. And almost all the Vietnamese we encountered were warm and friendly, just that there is a small minority that doesn’t speak English yet.
Having checked Halong Bay off my list, I would say it’s mission accomplished, and I don’t think I will return to Hanoi, but I’m glad to have gone and experienced it. Maybe Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) next time.
Cambodia: Siem Reap
Time difference: Cambodia is 1 hour behind Singapore
Exchange rate at airport: US$100 = 370,000 Riels / 10,000 Riels = S$3.40
Widely-used rate: US$1 = 4,000 Riels
I touched down at Siem Reap International Airport at 5:13pm. The moment I got off the plane and stepped on the tarmac, I felt super happy. It was the most chillax and welcoming airport! The main terminal building was shaped like a traditional house, with its slanted roof and pointed tip. It was also surrounded with nice gardens and ponds, like a huge villa. It didn’t feel like an airport at all.
After clearing customs, I exchanged some Cambodian Riels at the airport before exiting to meet my driver, Yon. I was welcomed by the sight of a nice little tuk-tuk attached to the back of a motorcycle. The tuk-tuk had a roof and its seat and armrests were draped in white silk cloth. Yon placed my backpack on the seat opposite me, and when he drove off, I felt like a king on my private chariot.
From the moment he drove out of the airport at 5:47pm and onto the main road, I fell in love with Siem Reap immediately…the roads were not congested, just a simple two-lane road with nice hotels and resorts lining each side. There were many people cycling along, the skies were clear with the sun setting in the distance, and the temperature was just like Singapore. There was a laid back charm to Siem Reap, totally different from Hanoi. Everything just felt perfect.
The distance from the airport to the city area of Phsar Chas (Old Market) is only 6km, so it didn’t take long before I arrived at my guest house, Encore Angkor. I had booked a single room at US$25/night, inclusive of breakfast and tax. There is also free wi-fi and even a small swimming pool for you to unwind after a day of exploring the Angkor temples.
Encore Angkor
www.encoreangkor.com
Address: 456, Sok San Street, Khum Svadongkum, Siem Reap (off Sivatha Boulevard, near Pub Street)
Tel: +855 (0) 63 969 400
I paid Yon US$5 for the ride and arranged to have him as my driver for the next two days of exploring the Angkor temples. He quoted me US$45 for two days, but since I wanted to watch the sunrise at Angkor Wat and sunset at Phnom Bahkeng, I had to pay him US$10 more (US$5 for each activity) because of the extended hours.
On top of that, I still had to pay US$40 for the 3-day Angkor Pass, which is the entrance ticket to all the Angkor temples and monuments in the Siem Reap area. There are three options: 1 day (US$20), 3 days (US$40) and 7 days (US$60). So even if you’re visiting for just two days, you’ll still need to purchase the 3-day pass. And you have to utilise them on consecutive days, i.e. three or seven days consecutively. Lastly, you can only purchase them at three authorised locations.
In all, my Angkor expedition came up to US$95 for two days. It’s not too expensive, but it could be cheaper if I had a companion. That’s one of the downsides of travelling solo. If you have companions, the cost of hiring the driver will be split, so each person will pay less. But it’s ok, I’m not complaining. I was too happy and excited to be in Siem Reap and couldn’t wait to explore the Angkor temples.
Yon helped me carry my backpack into the reception area of Encore Angkor, and I also fell in love with the place immediately. The lobby is like a spacious living room with clean tiles, comfy sofas and warm lighting. I didn’t realise I had to remove my shoes, and apologised profusely after the staff member told me very politely that I had to do so. He was so afraid of offending me!
My room was on the ground floor and it was big, very clean and most importantly, air-conditioned. I was anxious to explore the Phsar Chas area, so I quickly freshened up and headed out to Pub Street, just 100m and one street away.
Pub Street, as its name implies, is filled with nice restaurants and pubs, like Clarke Quay but without the maddening crowds. It is popular with tourists but locals also throng the area for its cheap food and atmosphere. The street is closed to traffic at night.
I walked around to get a feel of the area, but decided to head back to the main thoroughfare for some authentic Cambodian street food, instead of having a meal at a nice restaurant. There was a whole row of hawker stalls and tables set out in front of them, and I picked one randomly. I ordered a plate of fried pineapple rice with chicken and steamed rice, and a can of Angkor beer, and it only cost 11,000 Riels (US$2.75)! Super cheap and good!
After dinner, I went back to the guest house for a bath before heading out again. I felt like having some ice-cream, so I bought a chocolate mint one (US$1.50) and went to a pub for beer and soccer. One mug of Anchor draft beer cost just US$1! And I could get a good seat to watch live BPL soccer on a big screen! There’s free wi-fi too. In the end, I had two drinks – US$2 for two beers, live soccer match and free Wi-Fi, you can’t get that deal anywhere in Singapore!
As I had an early start the following morning, I didn’t stay out too late. But I was very happy with my first day in Siem Reap. The whole area had a good vibe and I really loved it. No better way to start the last leg of my trip!